NATURALS
Summer snowflake bulb: A Botox-like active
Dr Fabien Havas, Dr Shlomo Krispin, Nofit Borenstein-Auerbach, Dr Joan Attia-Vigneau, Dr Estelle Loing - IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Exercise is seen by many as a key component in their pursuit of physical, mental and emotional health. Increasingly, beauty and fitness are now converging. Looking your best during and after a workout session is highly desired by beauty- conscious active consumers worldwide. ‘Active beauty’ cosmetics are aimed at
helping consumers get the most out of their fitness routines, with products that help them before, during and after exercise.1
These may
be as simple as sweat-resistant formulations or as complex as encapsulated actives which are released over time when triggered by sweat, heat or motion. Some ‘active beauty’ products are designed
to protect, help repair, refresh, cool and replenish essential electrolytes. Others are colour cosmetics and facial skincare products designed to keep the face looking fresh and even-toned, no matter how hard the workout, often using illuminating moisturisers and mattifying powders. Brands will continue seeking out niche products that will help consumers look and feel their best during and after their time at the gym. Among these, cosmetic actives that can reduce
excessive facial sweating during and after exercise could be of special interest. As the average modern lifestyle becomes increasingly fast-paced, cosmetics treatments that bring fast and potent results are becoming ever more desirable. Active beauty is no exception to this rule.
Botox: From bacteria to beauty Botulinum toxin (Botox) is a neurotoxin produced by the anaerobic bacterium Clostridium botulinum. In 1895, it was recognised as the cause of botulism, a frequently fatal form of food poisoning. In 1965, Drachman demonstrated the paralysis of embryonic chicks’ muscles after botulinum toxin
According to the American Society of Plastic
Surgeons, 7.4 million Botox injections were performed in 2018, increasing by 3% from 2017.6 Non-surgical procedures like this are becoming an increasingly important part of younger US women’s repertoire to prevent the onset of lines and wrinkles and avoid excessive sweating. Indeed, this is an increasingly universal movement, with 11% of Chinese women aged 25-29 having used Botox treatment in a six- month period in 2018-19.7 Botox has also emerged as an important
treatment option for people struggling with focal hyperhidrosis. This is defined as sweating in excess of what is required to regulate body temperature. As many as 1.3 million Americans have been diagnosed with severe hyperhidrosis.8 Affected patients are vulnerable in
Figure 1: Summer snowflake injection2
, a finding that encouraged Allan Scott,
an ophthalmologist, to investigate it further for treatment of crossed eyes. In 1989, the FDA approved Botox for the
treatment of crossed eyes, uncontrollable blinking and hemifacial spasm. Over the following years, research exploded in this area, different toxins were developed and Botox was approved for several other applications including dermocosmetic applications like the treatment of hyperfunctional facial lines (2002) and hyperhidrosis (2004).3 Botox works by blocking nerve signals in
the muscles where it is injected, temporarily freezing the affected muscle. Without movement of these selected muscles, certain wrinkles may be softened, reduced, or even removed. The effects of Botox start to show three days after injection, with maximal effects evident after two weeks.4,5
occupational and social situations, leading to diminished physical and emotional well-being, including reduced self-confidence and self- esteem, difficulties in personal relationships, and social stigma. Botulinum toxin temporarily inhibits the release of acetylcholine, preventing the hyperstimulation of eccrine sweat glands that leads to excessive sweating.9 Botox injection has thus become an effective
option to smoothen expression lines and reduce excessive sweating. However, these injections and the quasi-medical setting necessary to dispense them can involve a significant amount of physical pain (and occasionally some undesired side effects, such as visible bruising) and psychological discomfort, as well as high cost and inconvenience. In addition, excessive use of Botox can confer
an unnatural appearance to the skin, generating an expressionless face. These considerations have led to a demand for a safe, non-invasive cosmetic alternative delivering a ‘Botox-like’ fresh look without the time, cost, and possible complications of actual Botox injections.
150 100 50 0
T0 2h 6h Figure 2: Muscle relaxing effect of Leucojum aestivum extract
www.personalcaremagazine.com 24h
Botanical solution Responding to these needs, IFF – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has developed a new botanical with Botox-like efficacy, not for a sweat-proof look but to help reduce sweating in the first place. This article will present the results of in vitro and clinical studies with an aqueous extract of Leucojum aestivum bulbs. This extract possesses muscle-relaxant
activity and delivers strong, rapid, Botox-like effects to skin, including softening and reducing
April 2022 PERSONAL CARE
49
Muscle contracton (%)
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