46 ANTI-POLLUTION
Pollution effect on hair Air pollution is heterogenic and comprises a diverse nature of compounds, including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), oxides, particulate matter (PM 2.5/10), and ozone. They can be defined by their chemical proprieties: hydrophobicity, acidity/ basicity, structural charge and electrostatic charge, which give rise to a wide variety of effects. Atmospheric pollutants are constantly in
contact with our hair and even if hair fibre is biologically inert, it still can chemically react. Indeed, hair composition includes various functional groups which act as adsorption sites for a wide variety of chemicals species. A growing number of studies highlight the effects of air pollution.
Pollutants can deposit on the hair fibre Scientists have observed an adhesion of particulate matter onto the hair surface when tresses are exposed to air pollution on a building’s roof situated in the polluted city of Baoding, China.2
Compounds of cigarette
smoke such as nicotine, also has the capacity to adsorb on hair fibre, as demonstrated by head space GC-MS experiment while some others do not, revealing that chemical structure and proprieties play roles in this phenomenon.3 It has been shown that metals such as Al, Fe,
Cu, Ba and Zn, present in atmospheric pollution, especially that of the urban environment and road traffic, can also be fixed on hair.2
same mechanism, hair tends to scavenge divalent metals such as hard water ions Ca2
Based on the + and Mg2+.4
Pollution affects hair structure When adsorbed on hair, some pollutants can affect its chemical composition. Oxidising gases like ozone, or metal ions can catalyse oxidative reactions, leading to an alteration of disulfide bonds, which are a key component of hair fibre. A decrease in tryptophan has also been observed content in hair exposed to pollution. Tryptophan is one of the amino acids founded in keratin and used as a natural indicator for hair cuticles damage.5
Pollution affects hair mechanical properties These damages could lead to the alteration of hair mechanical properties. An impact has been observed on frictional properties with an increase in the frictional forces. This could be related to the alteration of chemical surface state of the hair and the forces generated by particles presence. Moreover, exposing tresses to air pollution induces a progressive loss of shine and a duller aspect.5 To effectively fight from hair damage due
to pollution, it is necessary to: (1) perform deep cleaning to completely remove pollutants from the hair and scalp; (2) provide effective protection for hair to prevent pollutants from entering the hair and causing damage; and (3) neutralise pollutants or their effects. Considering these scientific study conclusions,
Berkem has developed a new active which combines several methods to protect hair. This active, extracted from raspberry leaves harvested in the south-western plains of France, provides a holistic protection the deleterious effects of pollution.
PERSONAL CARE April 2022
4 3 2 1
0.1% 0
Figure 2: Capacity of raspberry leaves extract to eliminate diesel particles on hair tresses Control
Basal state Placebo Basal state
-10 -30 -50 -70 -90 -110
3% -23% Control Placebo -72%
Raspberry leaves extract at 3%
3.11%
-94%
0.75%
-75% 0.19%
Raspberry leaves extract at 3%
-7%
-93% 100% Figure 3: Capacity of raspberry leaves extract to preserve hair shine
A solution to neutralise pollutants Scavenging divalent metal (Fe2
+ ion) capacity
of raspberry leaves extract has been evaluated with an in tubo test using Ferrozine. Briefly, Fe2
+ ions are brought together or not (control
condition), with different concentrations of raspberry leaves extract (from 0.03 to 1% v/v). A solution of Ferrozine (3- (2-Pyridyl) -5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine-4′, 4′′-disulfonic acid sodium salt) is added to the reaction medium, and links to free Fe2
Effective protection for hair As mentioned earlier, pollution exposure leads to a loss of shine. This result has been confirmed by an experiment conducted on hair tresses exposed to diesel solution in the Pollubox® device (Figure 3). Shine in tresses has been measured (L*
+ to form a colored
complex. The scavenging capacity of the extract is monitored measuring DO562nm decrease. Raspberry leaves extract displays a dose-
dependent scavenging activity on divalent metal ions (Figure 1). As iron and divalent metal ions are found in air pollution and are able to adsorb on hair tresses, the extract provides effective protection for hair, neutralising this class of pollutant.
A solution for deep cleaning The capacity of pollution particles elimination by raspberry leaves extract has been evaluated on tresses exposed to diesel particles in a closed box (Pollubox® device). After being in contact with pollution, tresses were washed, according to a standardised protocol, with a neutral shampoo containing raspberry leaves extract (3%) or a placebo (Figure 2). Washing hair with a shampoo containing
3% raspberry leaves extract allows the elimination of 94% of diesel particles deposed after pollution exposure. The shampoo containing the extract is 75% more efficient than the one with the placebo.
parameter of L*a*b* chromameter method) before pollution exposure (basal state), after exposure without shampoo (control condition), after exposure followed by washing with placebo shampoo (placebo condition) and after exposure followed by washing with active containing shampoo (3% raspberry leaves extract). The results show that using shampoo with 3% of raspberry leaves extract preserves hair from pollution damage: shine loss due to pollution is reduced by 93% (72% more effective than placebo). Hair shines, almost as if it had not been exposed to pollution.
Pollution’s effect on skin Environmental factors such as rain, wind, sun, air pollution or even dust, causes constant external aggressions on skin. Intense exposure to pollution has an impact on hair but also on skin. This permanent struggle against atmospheric pollution affects the cutaneous barrier, hydration balance, radiance and complexion. The skin ageing is accelerated. In the skin, toxins accumulate and highly
reactive free radicals appear. These affect the cell integrity by attacking lipids, proteins, mitochondria and DNA. Absorbed pollutants, such as cigarette smoke or air toxins, lead to a diminution of the blood flow and of the cutaneous diffusion of oxygen in tissue.
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% Of brightness loss compared to control
% Area of hair strands occupied by particles
POLLUTION
POLLUTION
SHAMPOO
SHAMPOO
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