DELIVERY SYSTEMS 97
Retinol stabilization via charge- induced nanocarrier system
Hanmo Yang - Samyang KCI Corporation
Retinol (vitamin A1, all-trans-retinol) has been one of the most iconic and extensively studied active ingredients in the field of anti-ageing skin care since the 1940s. It plays a vital role in regulating cell growth and differentiation, boosting collagen synthesis in the dermis, and supporting skin renewal and exfoliation, which delivers visible improvements in wrinkles, firmness, pigmentation, and overall texture. Despite its remarkable efficacy, retinol comes with a major challenge: instability. When exposed to light, heat, oxygen, moisture, or metal ions, the molecule easily oxidizes and degrades, leading to a rapid loss of activity. This not only reduces its effectiveness in
formulations but can also generate oxidative by- products that irritate the skin. As a result, retinol has earned the widespread reputation of being powerful, yet highly sensitive. Over the years, various stabilization strategies
have been developed; from encapsulation methods such as PEG (polyethylene glycol)- based liposomes, polymeric nanoparticles, and microemulsions, to the addition of antioxidants like tocopherol or chemical stabilizers such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) and BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole). However, these methods often face
commercial limitations, including poor storage stability, reduced skin absorption, complex manufacturing steps, and safety concerns related to additives. To address these issues, some brands have
turned to improved packaging solutions that physically shield retinol from external stressors. Yet the latest research trend is shifting toward a more advanced approach—achieving true chemical stability at the molecular level. Instead of merely protecting retinol from
external oxidation, this new direction focuses on understanding its intrinsic structure and reactivity to ensure lasting, fundamental stability from within.
The principle of electrostatic interaction-based stabilization The newly developed charge-induced interaction nanocarrier technology enhances the chemical stability of retinol by utilizing non-covalent bonds between the hydroxyl group (–OH) of retinol and the amino group (–NH2
) of phytosphingosine.
In this system, phytosphingosine plays a pivotal role. As a natural lipid containing an
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amino group, phytosphingosine exhibits strong affinity with the skin’s lipid barrier. When the amino group (-NH2
) of phytosphingosine interacts
electrostatically with the hydroxyl group (-OH) of retinol, the electron density of the retinol molecule becomes stabilized, effectively suppressing oxidation reactions. This interaction forms an ‘electronic shield’—a
protective, non-covalent bond that delays the initiation of oxidative degradation without altering retinol’s active structure. As shown in Figure 1, the retinol stabilized through this charge-induced interaction exhibits significantly enhanced stability compared with conventional retinol formulations.
Nanocarrier structure – dual stabilization mechanism As illustrated in Figure 2, this nanocarrier adopts a double-shielded structure in which each layer cooperatively contributes to the stabilization of retinol against external stresses. The inner core chemically stabilizes retinol through electrostatic interactions, while the outer lipid bilayer provides formulation-level protection from oxidation, UV light, and heat.
Core - first shield The innermost core contains the retinol- phytosphingosine complex, where the non- covalent electrostatic bonds stabilize the retinol molecule against oxidative stress. This internal stabilization is crucial because it directly addresses the molecular origin of retinol instability. The retinol molecules are distributed within
this core in a uniform manner, which prevents aggregation and localized oxidation hotspots. Additionally, the core acts as a reservoir, allowing gradual release of retinol to maintain efficacy over extended periods without sudden concentration spikes that could trigger skin irritation.
Shell – second shield The surrounding bilayer shell is composed of ionized phytosphingosine, ceramides, and other biocompatible lipids, forming a formulation-level barrier that shields retinol from external stressors. The shell mimics the natural lipid composition of human skin, improving adhesion and integration upon topical application. This double-shielded structure configuration
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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