124 FORMULATION


Functionalised bacterial cellulose powders: an alternative to functional microplastics Beyond its role as a hydrated fibrillar structuring platform, bacterial cellulose can also be processed and functionalised into powder form. This approach opens a direct pathway for the replacement of functional microplastics currently widely used in cosmetic formulations, such as PMMA, Nylon-12, and other synthetic polymer particles.


These microplastics fulfil well-identified functions in personal care formulations: tactile modulation, soft-focus effects, slip control, mattifying performance, sebum absorption, and overall sensory enhancement. Their success relies on a precise combination of particle size distribution, morphology, hardness, and surface chemistry. Functionalised bacterial cellulose powders


are not designed to replicate these materials identically. Instead, they offer an alternative functional approach, based on fundamentally different physico-chemical mechanisms. Depending on the degree of functionalization, particle size, and specific surface area, such powders can deliver: Light-diffusing properties, enabling soft-focus


effects without persistent plastic particles. Tactile modulation, with sensations ranging from


softness and velvety touch to cushioned glide. Absorption and regulation capacity, relevant


for mattifying or sebum-controlling formulations. From a formulation standpoint, these powders


integrate into redesigned formulation chassis, where performance is no longer driven solely by perfect sphericity or chemical inertness, but by dynamic interactions with the continuous phase and the overall formulation matrix.


Replacing particulate microplastics: technical challenges and levers Replacing microplastics powders with bio-based alternatives raises specific technical challenges. Synthetic polymers such as PMMA or Nylon-12 offer high industrial reproducibility, excellent chemical stability and sensoriality, and broad formulation tolerance. Bacterial cellulose powders, by contrast,


introduce additional parameters that must be carefully controlled: Particle size distribution, directly influencing


sensory perception and visual homogeneity. Surface treatment and functionalisation,


impacting compatibility with aqueous and oily phases. Shear and dispersion behaviour, playing a


critical role in processing and long-term stability. These constraints require a more integrated


formulation approach. They also call for close collaboration between raw material design and final application, positioning the powder not as a generic filler, but as a true sensory design tool.


Performance and sensory perception: redefining benchmarks When addressing particulate microplastics, the temptation for direct, one-to-one comparison


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026 12 10 8 6 4.9 4 2 0


Oleic acid


Ethanol


Mineral oil


Sunflower oil


Corn oil


Olive oil


Rapeseed oil


Glycerol


Figure 4: High absorption capacity of proprietary bacterial cellulose powder for Different Oils and Solvents. The proprietary bacterial cellulose powder used in this test has the brand name of Micbeads 100


80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


3.67 3.52 5.1 5.1 5.2 5.7 9.7


72


50.9 44.55 35.9 25.7 15.9 26.6 27.4 44.25


Figure 5: Mattifying effect of proprietary bacterial powder in Carbopol gel. The proprietary bacterial cellulose powder used in this test has the brand name of Micbeads 100


is even stronger than for structuring polymers. However, the underlying logic remains unchanged: performance should not be evaluated solely through sensory mimicry. Functionalised bacterial cellulose powders


enable the construction of alternative sensory experiences, characterised by: A softness that is less overtly “slippery” but


more enveloping, Progressive rather than immediate mattifying


effects but longer effect Stronger interaction with skin or hair


substrates. These differences are not weaknesses,


provided the formulation chassis is designed to leverage them. On the contrary, they contribute to the emergence of new sensory standards compatible with biodegradability and sustainability requirements.


Conclusion The transition toward microplastics-free


formulations is not limited to the removal of synthetic particles. It requires a complete reassessment of formulation architectures, performance criteria, and established sensory references. Bacterial cellulose - whether used as


a hydrated structuring network or as a functionalised powder - illustrates the potential of bio-based polymers to address these challenges. Rather than offering a simple imitation


of legacy solutions, it introduces a new way of building formulations, better aligned with upcoming regulatory, environmental, and societal expectations. The success of this transition will depend on


the ability of formulators to embrace change, rethink formulation chassis, and view sustainability not as a constraint, but as a driver of technical innovation, while keeping in mind that the acceptance and success of these new formulation chassis are tomorrow’s consumers.


PCM www.personalcaremagazine.com


Gloss (UB) at 60° on 50 µm Film


Absorption (g/g)


Kaolinite


MB100-Matte Rice starch Silica Beads


PMMA Talc Vinyl dimethicone MCC Carbopol gel


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