MARINE INGREDIENTS 63
New Zealand red algae: igniting the hydration circuit
Andrea Taimana, Katia Berrabah - Organic Bioactives ABSTRACT
Body skin is constantly challenged by cleansing, clothing friction and changing environmental conditions, so moisturisation can fade quickly unless a formula supports both surface water retention and the skin’s own hydration biology. Modern moisturisers are expected to deliver more than short-term moisturisation; they must provide durable hydration, improve barrier function and visible skin quality. Hydration is not simply adding water to the skin.
It is a dynamic balance between water availability at the surface, water movement across epidermal layers, and the barrier’s ability to prevent excessive evaporation. Body areas are frequently washed and rubbed by clothing, which accelerates the loss of surface moisturisation films and exposes the barrier to repeated challenges. With age, dryness and environmental stress, barrier recovery can become slower, amplifying roughness, tightness and a dull, crepey appearance. Conventional moisturisation strategies
typically fall into three buckets: (i) humectants that attract water, such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid; (ii) occlusives that reduce water loss, such as petrolatum and waxes; and (iii) emollients that improve feel and flexibility, such as triglycerides and esters. These tools are effective, but a single- mechanism approach may not maintain hydration throughout daily cycles of cleansing and friction. An effective active ideally supports
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an interconnected network — surface hydration plus intrinsic epidermal water/glycerol handling and barrier repair — while also supporting dermal resilience for a firmer, healthier look.
Ingredient concept Organic Bioactives’ active ingredient OceanDerMX HydraThalia™, hereafter described as Sarcothalia C, is derived from the endemic New Zealand red macroalga Sarcothalia circumcincta. Coastal macroalgae are exposed to fluctuating temperature, salinity and UV, and can produce protective biopolymers that retain water and stabilize tissues. Sarcothalia C is positioned as a ‘marine
glycan’ active — a concentrated source of highly hydrophilic sulphated polysaccharides designed to deliver both immediate moisturisation and longer term support of skin hydration pathways. Sarcothalia C is supplied as a powder and is
reconstituted prior to use, allowing the marine glycan fraction to fully hydrate and express its water-binding and film-forming properties in formulation. From a formulation perspective, sulphated
polysaccharides are valued for their ability to bind and structure water and to form a soft, breathable film. When well formulated, they can improve slip, reduce perceived roughness and create a more supple feel while contributing to measurable hydration and barrier benefits.
Sarcothalia C is a red seaweed extract derived from the New Zealand macroalga, Sarcothalia circumcincta, rich in hydrophilic sulphated polysaccharides (marine glycans). Sarcothalia C is presented as a multi-pathway solution linking a fast film-forming moisturisation effect to biomarker-level support of the epidermal hydration network and dermal resilience. In vitro, the extract increases Aquaporin3 (AQP3) protein content in human keratinocytes to 138% of control (p<0.05), consistent with improved handling of water and glycerol—two critical components of epidermal hydration physiology. In adult dermal fibroblasts, the extract increases ProCollagen I content to 124% of control (p<0.05), supporting stimulation of early collagen biosynthesis processes associated with firmness. In vivo, 2% reconstituted Sarcothalia C (equivalent to 0.025% powder) delivered rapid hydration improvement at two hours (+52% vs baseline, p<0.0001; +17% vs placebo, p<0.01; +13% vs hyaluronic acid, p<0.05), maintained hydration at 24 hours (+58% vs baseline, p<0.0001; +27% vs placebo, p<0.01; +20% vs hyaluronic acid, p<0.05), and preserved benefits after 14 days (+37% vs baseline, p<0.001; +19% vs placebo, p<0.05). Barrier function improved at 24 hours (+22%
improvement vs baseline, p<0.0001; ˜3× stronger than placebo, p<0.05) and remained superior to placebo (3× more effective, p<0.01) and hyaluronic acid (7× greater, p<0.05) on day 14. Skin firmness improved within 14
days (+18% vs baseline, p<0.0001; ˜4× greater than placebo, p<0.05). Overall, the results align with a ‘hydration circuit’ approach— fast surface hydration from marine glycans, complemented by biomarker changes (AQP3 and Pro-Collagen I) consistent with sustained hydration, barrier recovery and improved firmness
Scientific rationale and mechanisms of action Sarcothalia C operates through complementary mechanisms. Some are biophysical (film formation and water binding), while others are biological, supported by in vitro biomarker changes. AQP3 and Pro-Collagen I were assessed
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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