MARINE INGREDIENTS 75
The power of seaweed: advanced marine technology
Nolwenn Kergosien - Agrimer ABSTRACT
With consumers increasingly turning to natural and eco-friendly solutions, marine ingredients are set to become a key component of tomorrow’s cosmetics. Seaweed, in particular, are attracting a lot of
attention due to the variety of molecules they contain. Seaweed live in a harsh environment, constantly subjected to variations in salinity, UV radiation and periods of immersion and emersion caused by the tides, which lead to dehydration. They have therefore evolved adaptation mechanisms, including intracellular fluids, as well as an array of resilience compounds. These compounds exhibit bioactive properties, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, hydrating and prebiotic, making them highly promising for developing innovative, effective and sustainable skin care products. Through a biomimetic approach, Agrimer has
developed the patented NaDES marine technology, Seatectic™, a solvent that reproduces the characteristics of intracellular fluids and enables the selective extraction and preservation of active ingredients. This nature-inspired technology was developed through collaborative research with academics. It is a high-performance, sustainable way to develop new original skin care ingredients. With the example of SeaCalm™, we aim to demonstrate the benefits of NaDES technology and seaweed for designing new cosmetic ingredients.
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Ingredient specificity – NaDES Nowadays, consumers demand safe products, and companies are concerned with alternative extraction procedures. While common organic solvents have fallen out of favour due to their toxicity, solvents that are generally recognised as safe (GRAS), such as water or ethanol, are ineffective on less polar molecules.1 Against this backdrop, ionic liquids (ILs) and
deep eutectic solvents (DES) have emerged as promising new solvents for safe, clean, and energy-efficient extraction processes. ILs are composed of organic cations combined with organic or inorganic anions via ionic bonds. There are many possible combinations
of cations and anions, each with unique physicochemical properties, such as density, hydrophilicity, polarity, solubility and viscosity. This allows solvents to be tailored to specific utilisation needs. ILs are non-volatile, have a low risk of inflammation and a low vapour pressure, and are very stable. However, they are poorly biodegradable and biocompatible, and some are toxic.1,2 Deep eutectic solvents, a new generation of
sustainable solvents derived from renewable resources, emerged from ILs. They have similar thermodynamic properties to ILs, with the added advantages of economic viability and ease of synthesis.1 DES are formed from two or three solid
Marine ingredients are emerging as essential pillars of tomorrow’s cosmetics. Backed by the extraordinary biological richness of the oceans, they offer natural, effective, and sustainable solutions to key skin concerns. Among them, seaweed stands out for their remarkable ability to adapt to extreme environments. Their adaptation mechanisms include specific intracellular fluids and an exceptional diversity of metabolites. Seaweed concentrate a powerful arsenal of high- potential molecules for innovative, effective, and sustainable skin care. In this article, we take a deep dive into this living resource, drawing on insights from a five-year academic research program. These investigations led to the development of the biomimicry-inspired and patented NaDES marine technology, a combination of natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) applied to seaweed. NaDES reproduce the characteristics of the seaweed intracellular fluids, allowing the selective isolation of key compounds while preserving their native structure. This article aims to demonstrate the NaDES marine technology, and its benefits for innovation in cosmetics today, notably regarding the production of a new generation of actives: high-performance, sustainable, inspired by nature and paving the way for a more responsible future in skin care
constituents that bind together via hydrogen bonds.3 If these constituents are naturally occurring, such as plant primary metabolites, the resulting solvent is called a natural deep eutectic solvent (NaDES).4 At a specific stoichiometric ratio, a hydrogen
bond acceptor and a hydrogen bond donor combine through non-covalent and non-ionic intermolecular forces to form a liquid with a lower fusion point than its constituents. This liquid has strong solvation and extraction properties for numerous solutes.5 Furthermore, NaDES formation can involve
a wide range of molecules, including organic acids, amino acids, sugars, polyols, and choline derivatives.4,6
Consequently, the number of
possible combinations is substantial, enabling the solvent to be tailored to meet specific requirements. Depending on the solvent constituents and the percentage of water,
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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