FORMULATING 139


The case for naturally pigmented skin care


Theresa Callaghan - Callaghan Consulting International Susan Ayton, Jake Cleary - Ayton Global Research


For decades, skin care creams, lotions, and serums have been expected to be white or colourless. This convention—based on the historical association between whiteness, purity, and stability—has influenced formulation strategies, processing techniques, and consumer perceptions.1


The link


between whiteness and ‘clean’ beauty is deeply rooted in marketing. However, as consumer interest shifts towards sustainable, and inclusive beauty options,


natural,2


this long-standing emphasis on white formulations is being challenged—particularly by ingredient suppliers. The rising demand for natural,3


organic,


and minimally processed ingredients creates inherent conflicts: many high-value natural4 extracts contain characteristic pigments, e.g. green chlorophylls, brown polyphenols, yellow carotenoids, and attempting to remove or conceal these colours often contradicts sustainability principles and incurs unnecessary processing costs.


Natural pigments as markers of phytonutrient activity Many plant-derived compounds responsible for beneficial5


Polyphenols and flavonoids6


contribute to antioxidant pathways, photo- protection, and anti-inflammatory effects. Carotenoids7


skin care effects are naturally coloured. (green to brown)


(yellow to orange) support barrier


integrity, reduce UV-induced oxidative stress, and improve skin tone uniformity. Chlorophyll derivatives (green) exhibit antimicrobial8 wound-healing9


and properties; plant resins, ferments,


and clays possess unique mineral-based hues. Removing or de-pigmenting these compounds


can impair their functionality. Maintaining natural colour preserves biochemical integrity10 supports efficacy.


and


Reduction of unnecessary refinement and chemical processing Standardising colour to pure white often involves activated carbon treatment, bleaching, high filtration, synthetic whiteners, or opacifiers. Each step raises costs, energy use, and risks


degrading bioactive molecules. Non-white skin care aligns with green chemistry principles, lowers processing footprints, and maintains the formulation’s natural complexity.


Colour as an indicator of freshness and stability Natural-coloured products can help visualise


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stability changes over time. Controlled shifts may indicate oxidation or microbial growth, enabling early detection. Instead of concealing these changes with opaque whiteners, embracing inherent colours may enhance quality assurance and consumer trust when paired with transparent communication.


International consumer market research study The industry now faces a turning point, prompting a reassessment of whether whiteness (‘white is pure’) should remain the standard aesthetic or if naturally coloured skin care presents a more scientifically and commercially viable alternative. This change is driven by evolving11


consumer


values and industry priorities. To demonstrate this change, we conducted


an international consumer market research study and present our findings. The objective of the study was to understand whether the traditional preference for white or colourless skin care products remains relevant in today’s beauty landscape and to evaluate how consumers perceive naturally coloured formulations. Specifically, the research aimed to explore shifting attitudes toward colour as an indicator of natural ingredients, efficacy, freshness, and sustainability, given that many beneficial plant- derived compounds are inherently pigmented. By examining global consumer responses, the


ABSTRACT


Skin care has traditionally been formulated to appear white, reinforcing outdated associations between whiteness, purity, and efficacy. However, many beneficial natural ingredients possess inherent colour and refining them to achieve whiteness can reduce bioactivity and increase processing demands. This paper outlines the scientific rationale for retaining natural pigmentation and presents an international survey (n = 1002) assessing consumer attitudes toward non-white formulations. Despite expecting creams to be white, 97% of respondents were willing to use naturally coloured products, with minimal concerns about safety or performance. These findings indicate growing global acceptance of naturally pigmented skin care and support a shift toward more sustainable, authentic formulation practices


study sought to determine the level of acceptance for non-white skin care products, assess whether natural colour enhances or detracts from perceived product quality, and identify how these perceptions align with evolving values around minimal processing, green chemistry, and transparent formulation practices. Overall, the study was designed to provide insight into whether the industry should continue


April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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