NATURAL INGREDIENTS 53
Evaluating the moisturising power of apple juice
Sarah Pizzolato – Esperis
The cosmetic industry is currently undergoing a significant paradigm shift toward formulations that provide both aesthetic and functional skin benefits. Central to this evolution is the incorporation of plant- and fruit-derived actives with demonstrable biological activity. Fruits, rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and organic acids, have emerged as prime candidates for active cosmetic ingredients due to their capacity to interact with the skin at a cellular level, thereby promoting hydration and regenerative processes.1,2 Specifically, the bioactive compounds found
in Pyrus malus juice—such as polyphenols (quercetin, catechin, chlorogenic acid), organic acids (malic acid), and pectin—confer antioxidant, moisturizing, exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties.3,4,5
been shown to enhance skin barrier function, reduce transepidermal water loss, stimulate collagen synthesis, and facilitate cellular renewal. Despite the increasing utilization of Pyrus
malus extracts in cosmetic formulations, comprehensive studies that correlate in vitro bioactivity with in vivo skin hydration effects remain limited. Therefore, this study aims to bridge this knowledge gap by integrating in vitro
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assays on human keratinocytes with in vivo clinical evaluations employing instrumental skin hydration measurements. The hypothesis is that the revitalizing
cellular effects observed in vitro will correspond with enhanced skin hydration in vivo, thereby demonstrating a measurable and scientifically substantiated benefit for cosmetic application. The study objectives were:
These constituents have
■ To evaluate the metabolic and revitalising potential of Pyrus malus juice on human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). ■ To assess the short- and long-term moisturizing effects of a cosmetic formulation containing this extract, using validated biophysical tools in human volunteers. ■ To establish a scientific bridge between in vitro mechanistic activity and in vivo cosmetic functionality.
Materials and methods In vitro evaluation on HaCaT cells Human immortalised keratinocytes (HaCaT) were selected as an established model for epidermal biology. Cells were cultured under standard conditions in Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle Medium
ABSTRACT
There is growing interest in naturally-derived, bioactive cosmetic ingredients, especially those from fruits rich in antioxidants and vitamins. This study investigated the effectiveness of Pyrus malus juice by combining in vitro tests on human keratinocytes with in vivo skin hydration measurements on volunteers. The innovative aspect lies in linking cellular effects to real improvements in skin hydration. In vitro, mitochondrial activity was measured using the MTS assay to assess cell vitality. In vivo, both superficial and deep skin hydration were tracked using Corneometer and MoistureMeterEpiD devices, comparing an active formulation to a placebo over short- and long-term use. Results showed significant increases in cell metabolism and skin hydration following treatment with the active formulation. These findings confirm that Pyrus malus juice delivers measurable benefits for skin vitality and moisture, supporting its use as a valuable ingredient in modern cosmetic products
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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