MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS 127
Lecithin sourcing: traditional models and their drawbacks The global lecithin supply for cosmetic applications is largely derived from the agro-industrial processing of oilseeds, with soy representing the dominant raw material. Soy lecithin benefits from high availability, competitive pricing, and well- established processing infrastructure, making it the default option for many formulators. Yet this has given rise to several sourcing pain
points. The main one is GMO-related concerns associated with soy-derived lecithins. While genetically modified soy accounts for a large share of global production, consumer and brands, favour non-GMO alternatives. Securing non-GMO soy lecithin can therefore involve higher costs and more limited availability, adding complexity to sourcing strategies. Traceability represents another challenge.
Lecithin production involves multiple processing steps, from oilseed crushing to refining and fractionation, which can dilute the link between the final ingredient and its agricultural origin. For cosmetic applications, brands increasingly expect detailed traceability data extending to farm-level practices. However, cosmetics account for only a minor
share of global lecithin consumption compared with food and feed applications. This imbalance limits the influence of the cosmetic sector within shared supply chains, making access to detailed origin and traceability information more difficult to secure. Environmental impact is another increasingly
important factor. Soy cultivation has been associated in certain regions with land-use change and deforestation, raising concerns related to biodiversity loss and ecosystem resilience. As sustainability expectations intensify, ingredient suppliers now need to reassess both the origin of lecithins and the broader environmental implications of their sourcing and production models.
Towards more sustainable lecithins To address these challenges, the industry is progressively adopting more structured
Untreated
Evaluation of skin redness 10
0 -10 -20 -30 1h 2h *= p< 0.05 **= p<0.01, #p<0.1 Figure 1: Effects of the responsibly sourced bioactive emulsifier on skin redness
approaches to lecithin sourcing, focusing on non- GMO raw materials, improved traceability and environmental safeguards. Key elements of these approaches include the use of certified responsibly produced soy, the implementation of zero- deforestation commitments and the integration of third-party verification organisms. To do so, ingredients suppliers rely on closer
collaboration with upstream suppliers and greater transparency across the value chain. These sourcing commitments are increasingly reflected in ingredient design, demonstrating that sustainability objectives can be integrated without compromising formulation performance or versatility.
A lysophospholipid-rich O/W emulsifier with bioactive properties Lecithins derived from non-GMO, responsibly produced soy can be elevated into O/W emulsifiers enriched in lysophospholipids, combining high emulsification efficiency with bioactive functionalities.
RSBE This responsibly sourced bioactive emulsifier
(RSBE) can stabilize up to 60% oil phase without impacting viscosity, allowing formulators to create all textures from lightweight sprays to creams with an elegant, non-tacky finish. Its formulation flexibility supports both
cold and hot processing methods and ensures compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients. The natural wetting properties of phospholipids also enhance the dispersion of particles, resulting in more vibrant, uniform pigmentation in colour cosmetics and optimized performance in sunscreen formulations. In addition to its emulsifying properties, the RSBE has demonstrated strong and measurable benefits on skin and hair. A clinical evaluation was conducted on 20 volunteers to evaluate its ability to reduce irritation reactions and soothe the skin. Baseline measurement was done, followed
by induction of skin erythema using patch test containing a water solution of SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) at 2% in three skin areas on the back. After patch removal, a formulation containing
either the RSBE at 2.5% or a placebo was applied on the erythema area. One area was left untreated. The erythema index was measured one and two hours after application. The results showed a significant decrease in erythema when the formula with the RSBE was used (Figure 1), supporting its suitability for sensitive skin applications. Complementary in-vitro studies indicated that the RSBE increases the production of key components of the dermal matrix, such as pro-collagen I (+25%) and tropoelastin (+58%), suggesting a contribution to maintaining skin firmness and elasticity, for a more youthful appearance.
The RSBE also works as an efficient delivery Figure 2: The responsibly sourced bioactive emulsifier enhances Ki67 expression in hair follicles
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system. In vitro penetration studies demonstrated that it enhances the bioavailability of active ingredients, both lipophilic (CoQ10) and hydrophilic (caffeine and beta-arbutin), resulting in improved efficacy at equivalent concentrations. On hair, ex vivo studies conducted on skin
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
∆-17% #
∆-19%* ∆-28%** ∆-26%* Untreated ■ Placebo ■ RSBE 0.5% ■
Erythema index variation (% vs T0 and placebo)
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