RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS 109


RM for enhanced pigment suspension and dispersion


Rita Figueiredo, Joana Guerreiro – Elementis


Colour cosmetics present uniquely demanding formulation requirements, driven both by their high pigment content and by the intense performance expectations of today’s competitive beauty market. Each product must deliver reliable colour payoff — the way colour transfers to the skin during application — yet every format poses its own challenges. Lip formulations, for example, must release


colour evenly and readily within a small, well- defined area without bleeding or feathering, whereas foundations must spread smoothly, provide uniform coverage, and help even out the complexion without streaking or patchiness. Achieving these effects requires careful control


of pigment wetting, dispersion, and distribution, supported by good formulation principles and the right combination of functional ingredients. Beyond application, colour cosmetics must remain stable throughout their shelf life; when instability occurs, products can shift in colour and lose usability altogether.


Next generation solution for colour cosmetic formulation With decades of expertise in clay-based rheology modifiers, Elementis has long supported colour cosmetic formulators in achieving stable and reproducible systems with thixotropic viscosity and pigment suspension properties across a wide range of formulations. Building on this foundation, the next generation of hectorite-based organoclay gels introduces a patent-pending approach designed to meet the evolving needs of modern formulations. Activated through a fully naturally-derived skin


conditioning agent, it provides mild activation, a high natural index with natural solvents, and effective performance even at low use levels due to its optimised clay content. By leveraging this


optimised new generation of rheology modifiers, formulators benefit not only from its rheological properties but also from its ability to enhance film formation, pigment dispersion, and pigment suspension.


These attributes translate into key advantages


for colour cosmetics, including more uniform colour distribution and intense colour pay-off. This article explores how a next generation rheology modifier can deliver additional performance benefits that help address the formulation challenges associated with high load pigment colour formulations.


TABLE 1: COMPOSITION OF TITANIUM DIOXIDE DISPERSIONS USED TO EVALUATE THE PIGMENT-WETTING EFFICIENCY


w/w (%) Ingredient / INCI Titanium Dioxide / CI 77891 Capric/caprylic triglycerides


ISD Gel/Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Oleate


www.personalcaremagazine.com Test Dispersion 40.00 53.00 7.00 Control Dispersion 40.00 60.00 - Ingredient / INCI Yellow Iron Oxide / CI 77492 Capric/caprylic triglycerides


ISD Gel/Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Oleate


Test Dispersion 5.00 88.00 7.00


Pigment wetting and dispersion Effective pigment dispersion is essential for achieving uniform colour, smooth application, and stable performance in colour cosmetics. The process involves two key steps: wetting the pigment surface, where air is replaced by the oil phase, and breaking down agglomerates through mechanical energy to achieve finer, more uniform particle distribution. Good wetting reduces particle-particle


interactions, which can be monitored through the rheology of pigment dispersions: lower viscosity at higher pigment loading indicates more efficient


TABLE 2: COMPOSITION OF YELLOW IRON OXIDE DISPERSIONS USED TO EVALUATE THE PIGMENT-WETTING EFFICIENCY


w/w (%) Control Dispersion 5.00 95.00 -


April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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