RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS 113
(T0, immediately after shaking)
Start After 24 hours After 1 week
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
Figure 8: Shimmering oil formulations with and without the ISD gel. (A) Control formulation without the ISD gel, showing pigment settling and a compacted caking layer at the bottom of the flask. (B) Formulation containing the ISD gel, remaining homogeneous with no visible pigment compaction
pigment dispersion during application and drying. By preventing pigment migration and supporting a more cohesive film structure, hectorite organoclay gels promote higher pigment deposition, more even coverage, and a smoother visual finish. The thixotropic recovery of the hectorite- based network also contributes to film uniformity by allowing the formulation to flow under shear during application while rapidly rebuilding structure afterward, helping maintain pigment distribution as the film dries. These attributes translate directly to improved performance on the skin, helping avoid patchiness and ensuring a consistent, natural‑looking result.
Conclusion The hectorite-based organoclay gels demonstrate that a rheology modifier can address many of the core challenges inherent to colour cosmetics formulation development. These products must manage high pigment loads, deliver smooth and uniform application, maintain consistent colour payoff, and remain stable throughout their shelf life—all while meeting the elevated sensory and performance expectations of today’s beauty consumers. While their primary role is to thicken oil phases
and improve heat stability, the results presented in this article show that its benefits extend far beyond basic viscosity control. By enhancing pigment wetting, supporting fine
dispersion, building internal structure for particle suspension, increasing yield point, and promoting smooth, even film formation, hectorite organoclay gels directly address the formulation hurdles that often compromise colour uniformity, coverage, and stability. These multifunctional effects help prevent issues such as patchiness, streaking, settling, and inconsistent payoff, enabling formulators to create products that perform reliably across a wide range of formats - from solid to liquid formulations. The robustness of the hectorite-based network
also ensures reliable performance across typical manufacturing conditions, tolerating variations in shear, temperature, and processing order without compromising the final performance.
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Figure 9: Liquid highlighter applied on a black Leneta card using a 100 µm film applicator. The formulation with the alkane gel forms a smooth, continuous film with uniform pigment distribution, whereas the control formulation without the alkane gel shows irregularities, pigment agglomeration, and uneven coverage
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
TABLE 7: COMPOSITION OF THE SHIMMERING OIL FORMULATION USED TO EVALUATE THE PIGMENT SUSPENSION AND ANTI-CAKING PERFORMANCE
w/w (%) Phase A Ingredient / INCI Isododecane ISD gel/Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Oleate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Preservative/Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin B
Glitter pigment/Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
Effect pigment/Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491) Alkane gel Test
Shimmering oil 38.00
14.00
25.00 10.00
10.00 0.50
0.50 2.00
Control
25.00 10.00
10.00 0.50
0.50 2.00
Control
Shimmering oil 52.00
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