88 MARINE INGREDIENTS


with promising applications in personal care. In addition to the above-mentioned diatom frustules these include polysaccharides, peptides, antioxidants, and trace minerals that offer multifunctional benefits to the skin. Polysaccharides from algae, particularly brown


and red algae are known for their exceptional water-binding capacity. Ingredients like alginate, carrageenan, and fucoidan provide both deep hydration and form a protective barrier on the skin. This barrier helps prevent trans epidermal water loss and shields the skin from environmental pollutants.3


Some marine polysaccharides also


exhibit soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making them suitable for sensitive or reactive skin. Marine peptides, often derived from fish


collagen or algae, have shown significant potential in anti-ageing formulations. These peptides can stimulate fibroblast activity, enhance collagen production, improve skin elasticity and reduce photoageing and thereby reduce visible signs of ageing. Some marine peptides also possess antimicrobial properties, offering added value in formulations for acne-prone or compromised skin.4,5 Marine antioxidants are another powerful


class of bioactives. Microalgae such as Dunaliella salina, Haematococcus pluvialis and Benthic Diatoms produce carotenoids like astaxanthin, fucoxanthin and beta-carotene to protect themselves from oxidative damage. These compounds are highly effective at neutralizing free radicals, which contribute to premature ageing, pigmentation, and inflammation in human skin. In some studies, astaxanthin has been shown to be several times more potent than vitamin E or coenzyme Q10.6 Trace minerals and elements found in marine


environments such as magnesium, zinc, and selenium, play a key role in skin health. These elements support enzymatic activity, barrier function, and cellular repair processes.7


Figure 1: SEM image of a diatom frustule illustrating the intricate mesoporous silica architecture 1.0


0.5


Besides


being abundant in marine environments, marine derived minerals have, in some cases, shown to be more bioavailable than the earth-sourced alternative.8 Importantly, marine ingredients tend to be


multifunctional. A single extract or compound often provides hydration, protection, anti- inflammatory action, and antioxidant support. This complexity reflects the ecosystems they originate from, where organisms must perform multiple survival functions simultaneously. The resulting ingredients can shield your skin against environmental stress and strengthen the skin’s resilience and self-repair capabilities. In summary, marine ingredients offer a unique combination of hydration, protection, anti-ageing, and nourishment, all inspired by nature’s own survival strategies from the ocean. By tapping into these protective and reparative


systems, we can design high performing skin care products while staying aligned while staying aligned with the growing demand for natural, sustainable, and scientifically grounded formulations. Marine ingredients offer a glimpse into a more holistic approach to skin health, one that respects both biological complexity and environmental responsibility.


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026 0 0.1 1.0 Time (h) 10 1 day


Figure 2: Diatom frustules can be used for controlled release of active ingredients. The figure shows how the loaded retinol is released over time, achieving a full release after approximately 20 hours


Formulation challenges and opportunities While marine ingredients offer remarkable bioactivity and functional benefits, incorporating them into effective and stable skin care products calls for adjusted formulation approaches. Unlike many terrestrial extracts, marine-derived compounds typically have specific sensitivities and complex structures requiring tailored formulation strategies. One of the most common hurdles is stability.


Many marine bioactives, such as peptides, polysaccharides, and antioxidant pigments are sensitive to temperature, light, and pH variations. Exposure to oxygen or heat during processing can degrade these compounds, reducing their efficacy. For example, astaxanthin, a potent antioxidant


from microalgae, is highly effective in protecting against free radical damage but must be carefully stabilized to avoid rapid oxidation and colour


fading. As a contrast, other compounds, such as freshly extracted frustules of diatoms are stable in temperatures exceeding many hundred degrees Celsius and pH between 1 and 10 but are instead sensitive to crushing and grinding. Encapsulation technologies such as liposomes,


microspheres, hydrogels and diatom frustules for a 100% marine solution, are proving especially useful for certain marine actives. These systems can protect sensitive compounds, enhance penetration, and provide sustained release on the skin. For example, encapsulation marine peptides can improve bioavailability and reduce the need for higher concentrations. Another concern is compatibility. Marine


ingredients often come with high mineral content or with hydroxyl-, sulfate or amine groups that may interact with polar groups on other ingredients such as emulsifiers, thickeners, or preservatives through electrostatic interaction or hydrogen bonding.


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Fractional release retinol


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