CONTENTS REGULARS
5 Editor’s Comment 6 Cover Story: Ashland 9 News
148Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
18 Interview: Building Beauty Brands Dr. Dominika Andrys is an Auckland, New Zealand- based cosmetics consultant and author of the recently published book, Beyond Beauty: How to Build Your Own Cosmetic Brand
23 Breaking beauty boundaries
with science An in-depth preview of New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists Suppliers’ Day on 19-20 May
35 A call to climate-adaptive beauty
Gattefossé describes a Morus alba–NaDES complex that fine-tunes adaptive cellular responses, strengthens the skin barrier, and delivers softer, protected skin
41 Glucomannan-based multifunctional ingredient
Inabata France presents a natural texturizing agent based on a polymer extracted from konjac, a Japanese root vegetable
47 Turning back the ageing clock with snow algae active
Mibelle Biochemistry explains how a snow algae extract was shown to reverse biological age according to the Horvath clock while modulating protein levels, bringing them back to a younger profile
53 Evaluating the moisturising power of apple juice
Esperis investigates the effectiveness of Pyrus malus juice by combining in vitro tests on human keratinocytes with in vivo skin hydration measurements on volunteers
58 Scalp care innovation and wellness strategies
The scalp care category is evolving from niche to core, driven by skinification and consumer demand for wellness-linked claims, as Biova explores
63 New Zealand red algae: igniting the hydration circuit
Organic Bioactives presents a red seaweed extract as a multi-pathway solution linking a fast film-forming moisturisation effect to biomarker-level support of the epidermal hydration network and dermal resilience
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67 The role of plasticizers in enhancing stability and texture
Koster Keunen investigates the efficiency of a new plasticizer for changing the morphological and rheological properties of certain wax matrices
75 The power of seaweed: advanced marine technology
Agrimer demonstrates NaDES marine technology and its benefits for innovation in cosmetics today
81 Natural betaine: revealing new benefits for modern beauty
Agrana illustrates how a naturally occurring molecule can be leveraged to meet modern demands for efficacy, safety, and sustainability in personal care
87 Oceans as a source of life and innovation
Swedish Algae Factory explains how marine ingredients can help formulators to develop products that provide superior UV protection, hydration, detoxification, and anti-ageing benefits
92 Functional oligosaccharide for sensitive skin
Nagase Viita presents the findings of an in vivo study on a maltooligosyl glucoside liquid, demonstrating its preventive effect against surfactant-induced skin irritation while offering favourable sensory attributes, including rich foam quality and silky after-feel
97 Retinol stabilization via charge- induced nanocarrier system
Samyang KCI describes a charge-induced interaction- based retinol stabilization nanocarrier technology that addresses instability, low absorption, and skin irritation
103 Lipopolysaccharides: skin immunity and resilience
Distributor Charles Tennant explains how Macrophi’s lipopolysaccharides ingredient - amphiphilic glycolipids derived from gram-negative bacteria - supports key skin functions such as barrier reinforcement, hydration, and epidermal renewal
109 RM for enhanced pigment suspension and dispersion
Hectorite-based organoclay gels demonstrate that a rheology modifier can address many of the core challenges inherent to colour cosmetics formulation development, as Elementis explains
115 Vitamins: modulating the hallmarks of skin ageing
Society of Cosmetic Scientists Fellow Barbara Brockway and DSM-Firmenich explain why, in the era of peptides, exosomes and growth factors, vitamins will retain their critical role in skin longevity
121 Beyond microplastics: a shift in formulation chassis
Bioweg examines the technical challenges of moving away from legacy polymer networks, the limitations of direct sensorial mimicry, and the potential of bio-based, biodegradable polymers
126 Sustainable lecithins for cosmetic formulations
As lecithins continue to play a central role in modern cosmetic formulations, the sustainability of their sourcing has become a strategic priority for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
133 A new frontier in active boosting and delivery
Bioeutectics reviews the physicochemical basis of eutectic systems, introduces the concept of Active Natural Deep Eutectic Systems (ANDES), in which actives are structurally integrated into the eutectic matrix, and presents a case study on eutectic hyaluronic acid
139 The case for naturally pigmented skin care
Callaghan Consulting International and Ayton Global Research outline the scientific rationale for retaining natural pigmentation and presents an international survey assessing consumer attitudes toward non-white formulations
144 Moving on from petrochemistry towards bio-inspiration
Natura-Tec extols the virtues of replacing inert synthetic petroleum jelly with natural alternatives that are biodegradable, functional, pleasant to the touch and derived from renewable resources
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April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE 18
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