44 MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
glucomannan grade insoluble in water (Table 3). A descriptive sensory analysis was conducted by 27 trained expert panellists using the EBI Touch® methodology. The formulation was applied on the forearm
following a standardized protocol, using predefined attributes covering pick-up (fluidity, high peak, slipperiness), spreading (freshness, whitening, spreading), and after-feel properties after one and two minutes (stickiness, greasiness, smoothness, penetration). Attributes were rated on a scale from 0
(absence) to 10 (maximum intensity), using reference products from the Kit EBI Touch®. In parallel, the physical stability of the scrub was visually assessed to confirm the suspension of exfoliating particles within the emulsion.
Sensory profile The scrub formulation containing GluCPX exhibited a well-balanced sensory profile combined with effective particle suspension (Figure 4). At pick-up, the product was perceived as moderately fluid with a pronounced slippery character and a low high-peak value, indicating good handling properties. During spreading, the formulation showed good
spreading (6.93) and freshness (5.74), with limited whitening (3.48), contributing to a controlled and comfortable application. After application, low stickiness and greasiness were reported, while smoothness and moderate penetration ensured a light and pleasant after-feel. In addition to these sensory benefits,
GluCPX provided sufficient structuring of the continuous phase to maintain exfoliating particles homogeneously suspended, with no visible sedimentation. These results demonstrate that, beyond its emulsifying role, GluCPX delivers effective suspensive performance while preserving favourable sensory attributes, making it particularly suitable for exfoliating emulsions where both texture and stability are key formulation parameters.
TABLE 3: GENTLE HAND SCRUB Phase Ingredient A Water
B
Sodium Benzoate1 Sweet Almond Oil1 DUB 810 C2
Dermofeel GSC3 C
Inagel Green/GluCPX4 Propol-ISLB5
Glycerine1
E F
INAWAVE Almond Shell
Tocopherol6 Parfum Yuzu7
Mica beige nude8 INCI Aqua Sodium Benzoate
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil Coco Caprylate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Glucomannan (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Xanthan Gum
Glucomannan Glycerin
Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seedcoat Extract
Tocopherol Parfum
Mica, Titanium dioxide, Iron oxides Suppliers: 1: Cooper 2: Stearinerie Dubois 3: Evonik 4: Inabata 5: Shimizu 6: BASF 7: Maison Sevessens 8: AromaZone
Process: Weight A and B separately, heat up to 70°C. Do the emulsion (2000 rpm 15min) - O/W. Cool down to 50°C, add C (2000rpm 20min). Cool down to RT and add D, E and F (1000rpm 10min). Aspect: Pinky emulsion with grain.
Greasy Fluid Smooth Penetrating
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 High Peak
Slippery
Freash
Sticky Spreading Figure 4: Sensory profile of a hand scrub with GluCPX
Conclusion This study demonstrates that the glucomannan- based blend GluCPX is an effective multifunctional ingredient for cosmetic emulsions, combining structuring, stabilization, and formulation versatility. Its strong viscosity- building capacity, mainly driven by glucomannan, promotes the formation of a structured gel network that enhances droplet suspension and limits droplet mobility, which are key mechanisms for emulsion stability. The lack of stability observed when individual
%
qsp 0.5 12 8 3
1 5
10 1
0.5 0.1
0.06
components were tested separately, compared with the long-term stability achieved with the complete blend, clearly confirms the importance of synergistic interactions within GluCPX. The experimental design approach enabled
the identification of a well-defined formulation domain, with stable emulsions obtained for GluCPX concentrations between 1% and 2% and oil contents ranging from 10% to 40%. This methodology provided practical
guidance for formulation development and demonstrated that GluCPX can stabilize oil-in-water emulsions without the need for conventional emulsifiers. Beyond fundamental formulation insights,
the multifunctionality of GluCPX was illustrated through application-oriented examples. The blend enabled the development of
stable face cream emulsions, provided effective suspension of exfoliating particles while maintaining a pleasant sensory profile in a scrub, and ensured process stability and improved rinse-off in a water-containing solid conditioner. Overall, GluCPX emerges as a versatile,
naturally derived solution capable of addressing both formulation and process challenges across a wide range of cosmetic applications.
Reference 1. Hummel M, Lavarde M, Pages P, Mallard Tavano H, Pensé-Lhéritier A-M. Experimental design and evaluation of the influence of a glucomannan-based thickener on the characteristics of an oil/water emulsion. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients. 2020; 7, e9
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com PCM
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