100 DELIVERY SYSTEMS
absorption and, through sustained-release design, enhances efficacy, stability, and safety simultaneously. By avoiding regulated or environmentally harmful ingredients such as PEG, BHT, and BHA, it aligns with the eco-friendly and clean beauty trend. As a new paradigm in retinol stabilization,
this technology is expected to expand across multiple industries, including high-performance cosmetics, dermocosmetics, and nanocarrier- based pharmaceutical applications, while providing formulation guidelines through ongoing optimization studies. Furthermore, this technology has the potential
to go beyond a single stabilization method, serving as a design principle based on inter-molecular electronic interactions. It is poised to evolve into a platform for formulating high-performance, low-irritation, and sustained-efficacy products for retinol and other active ingredients. Ultimately, this technology is expected to
become a transformative innovation not only for the cosmetics industry but also for the broader functional ingredient sector, establishing itself as a core enabling technology that enhances the competitiveness and sustainability of the beauty industry.
Bibliography 1. Rakuša Ž et al. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021; Jul;20(7):2350-2358
2. Zhou H et al. Current Advances of Nanocarrier Technology-Based Active Cosmetic Ingredients. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021; Jul 13;14:867–887
3. Wegmann M et al. Polar emollients enhance penetration and biological effects of Phytosphingosine on skin. Colloids and Surfaces: A Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects. 2008; 331(1):103-107
4. Lee DU et al. Comparing the stability of retinol in liposomes with cholesterol, β-sitosterol, and stigmasterol. Food Sci Biotechnol. 2021 Mar
<2D> Conventional Retinol Liposome
Figure 7: CLSM cross-sectional images comparing retinol penetration after Franz diffusion cell test 27;30(3):389–394
PCM
5. BASF. BASF develops Retinol 50, a new grade of retinol delivering stability performance without the addition of BHA and BHT. 26 July 2023.
https://www.basf.com/us/en/media/ news-releases/2023/07/basf-develops- retinol-50--a-new-grade-of-retinol- delivering-stab
6. Pawłowska M et al. Retinol and Oligopeptide- Loaded Lipid Nanocarriers as Effective Raw Material in Anti-Acne and Anti-Aging Therapies. Life. 2024, 14(10), 1212
7. Zhang S et al. Study on Photodegradation Mechanism and Kinetics of Vitamin A and Derivatives under Ultraviolet Irradiation. ACS Food Sci. Technol. 2025, 5, 5
8. Lee S-C et al. Stabilization of retinol through incorporation into liposomes. J Biochem Mol Biol. 2002; Jul 31;35(4):358-63
9. Farwick M et al. Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: A novel agent for the repair of photoaged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2007; 29(4):319-29
10. Cosmetics Business. New retinols are avoiding using BHA and BHT as antioxidants, so what’s the problem? 11 September 2023
<3D> Max 250 Encapguard Retinol-ON
Skin cross-section
Stratum corneum Epidermis
Dermis
200
150
100
50
0 Conventional Retinol Liposome
Encapguard Retinol-ON
Figure 6: Encapguard Retinol-ON Franz diffusion cell test
Untreated
Conventional Retinol
Liposome Figure 8: Raman spectral analysis comparing retinol penetration in clinical evaluation PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Encapguard Retinol-ON
Untreated
Conventional Retinol
Liposome
Encapguard Retinol-ON
Min
Cumulative Penetration of Retinol (ug/cm2
)
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