84 NATURAL INGREDIENTS
Dermatological assessment of dandruff score
4 3 Overall colour shift
Clinical study | Dermatest | Agrana (2025) * significant difference vs. placebo (p<=0.05)
3
2.5 2
2 1 * 0 t0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5 t6 t7 2 weeks preconditioning 6 weeks PuraBeet® Shampoo 6 weeks postconditioning
Figure 4: After a four-week study period, dandruff severity was significantly reduced following use of the 4% natural betaine shampoo compared to the preconditioning phase
and scalp.3 UV radiation and environmental pollutants
also strip away natural oils and pigments, resulting in colour fading, roughness, frizz, and a loss of shine. Hair follicles, like skin, are vulnerable to external aggressors. Certain pollutants can penetrate follicles
through transfollicular and transdermal routes, affecting sebaceous secretion and overall follicular function. Epidemiological studies have linked particulate matter to the worsening of dermatological conditions, and billions of PM particles can deposit on hair surfaces in highly polluted environments, causing structural changes due to mechanical friction.3 As climate change intensifies, hair is
increasingly exposed to extreme temperatures, UV radiation, and environmental pollutants, all of which compromise hair integrity and scalp health. Building on the principles of skin protection,
hair care strategies must also focus on hydration, reinforcing the scalp barrier, and reducing itchiness and sensitivity. In this context, natural betaine emerges as a multifunctional ingredient with the potential to protect scalp health and maintain hair colour, providing comprehensive defence against environmental and lifestyle- related stressors. The efficacy of natural betaine in hair care was
evaluated in two complementary studies focusing on dandruff reduction and colour protection. In a clinical study involving participants
suffering from dandruff, a shampoo formulated with betaine was used over a period of six weeks. Both team of experts and participants assessed the outcomes. The study revealed promising effects: 75% of
participants reported that the shampoo effectively reduces dandruff with regular use, while 65% confirmed that itching progressively decreased over time.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
1.5 1
0.5 0
After 1 washing After 5 washings After 10 washings
Figure 5: The shampoo containing 4% natural betaine demonstrated significantly better colour retention compared to the reference shampoo after ten applications
These findings were also confirmed by the
expert team. The dandruff score showed a significant reduction after six weeks of betaine- shampoo use (Figure 4). These findings highlight the soothing and anti-irritant properties of natural betaine, supporting scalp health and comfort. In an in vitro study on coloured hair, virgin
European natural hair (initial shade: medium natural blonde) was dyed red, and the effect of betaine shampoo on colour retention was evaluated. Using advanced colorimetric measurements, changes in red intensity (a), overall colour shift (∆C), and total visible colour change (∆E) were tracked over multiple washes. While both the betaine shampoo and a
reference shampoo (without betaine) showed some degree of colour wash-out, the betaine formula preserved the hair colour with no noticeable fading even after ten washes, while the reference shampoo showed a clear colour change after the same number of washes (Figure 5). This demonstrates the protective effect of natural betaine on hair pigments and colour longevity. These studies confirm that natural betaine
offers a range of benefits for hair care. While it is already well established that betaine helps reduce frizz and improve combability, these new studies highlight two additional benefits that were not previously documented: effective anti-dandruff action and enhanced colour protection. Betaine-containing shampoo can not only
soothe itching and reduce dandruff but also helps maintain hair colour over time. Natural betaine thus offers a comprehensive solution to address environmental and lifestyle-related stressors, aligning with modern hair care needs in the context of pollution, UV exposure, and climate change.
Conclusion The example of natural betaine illustrates a broader principle in personal care science:
even well-established ingredients can take on new importance when evaluated in terms of sustainability, multifunctionality and performance backed by evidence. Although betaine has long been recognized for
its moisturizing and protective properties, ongoing research continues to reveal new aspects of its beneficial effects. Beyond its functionality, the origin and
processing of ingredients has become increasingly relevant to both formulators and consumers. Agrana’s natural betaine, produced by upcycling sugar beet molasses and classified as 100% natural according to ISO 16128 (NI = 1), represents this shift toward sustainable ingredient sourcing supported by scientific validation and certification. For the cosmetics industry, this reflects a
broader evolution: innovation does not always require the development of new molecules, but often involves unlocking the full potential of established ingredients to meet modern scientific and environmental standards. Natural betaine is a prime example, illustrating
how a naturally occurring molecule can be leveraged to meet modern demands for efficacy, safety, and sustainability in personal care.
References 1. McKinsey & Company. The state of fashion: Beauty. 2025 (Vol. 2)
2. Mintel. 2026 Global predictions: Beauty & personal care
3. Samra T, Lin RR, Maderal AD. The Effects of Environmental Pollutants and Exposures on Hair Follicle Pathophysiology. Skin Appendage Disord. 2024; 10(4):262-272
4. Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, Maibach HI. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008; 30(2):87-95 5. Agrana. PuraBeet® Study. 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com PCM *
Instrumental study | SGS proderm | Agrana (2025) Shampoo w/o betaine ■ Shampoo with 4% PuraBeet ■
* significant difference vs. placebo (p<=0.05
Dandruff score
2.3 2.9
2.5 2.6
1.8 1.9
2.1 2.1
Delta C by chromameter
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