MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


Glucomannan-based multifunctional ingredient


Marion Geoffroy, Javier Arrieta Escobar - Inabata France Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier - FRM GaleSens Marc Lavarde - UPR EBInnov


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To meet the growing demand for multifunctional and easy-to-use cosmetic ingredients, Inabata France has developed Inagel Green, hereafter known as GluCPX, a natural texturizing agent based on a polymer extracted from konjac, a Japanese root vegetable. GluCPX is a synergistic ingredient blend


primarily composed of glucomannan, dispersed in an oil matrix containing caprylic/capric triglycerides, polyglyceryl-4-laurate (PG4L), and a small amount of xanthan gum. This specific composition allows the material to


be provided as a fluid paste that is easy to handle and incorporate into formulations. Because the glucomannan is pre-dispersed in the oil phase, GluCPX develops viscosity only when added in water. This self-emulsification facilitates rapid dispersion. Previous work demonstrated that this


glucomannan-based blend can strongly influence oil-in-water emulsions by increasing viscosity, modulating droplet size, and improving short-term stability, indicating a functionality that extends beyond conventional thickening.1 Beyond its established gelling performance,


GluCPX also exhibits clear emulsifying behaviour, opening new opportunities for formulation design and process optimization. The present work explores the functional domain of GluCPX through its emulsifying properties in face cream applications, its suspensive performance and


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40.00 35.00 30.00 25.00 20.00 15.00 10.00 5.00 0.00


0.00 0.50 Figure 1: Oil/GluCPX combination trials


sensory benefits in emulsions, and its relevance for solid formats, an increasingly popular product form.


Emulsifying power - Face cream application Evaluation of the impact of the oil/GluCPX ratio on the emulsion viscosity and stability Two critical formulation factors were investigated in this study: the concentration of GluCPX (0.2–2.0%) and the oil content (5–40%). To efficiently explore the experimental space, 12 trials were formulated to cover the range of oil/GluCPX combination, with a higher density of point in the transition zone between stable and unstable


formulations (Figure 1). The emulsions were formulated using a minimalistic chassis designed to isolate and highlight the contribution of GluCPX. No additional emulsifiers or stabilizing ingredients were included, ensuring that stability could only be attributed to the presence of GluCPX. The composition of the chassis used for all trials is presented in Table 1. The mixture was prepared using a VMI Turbo


Test mixer equipped with a 35 mm deflocculator. A2 was premixed and added in A1 at 500 rpm. The stirring was increased to 1000 rpm after two minutes, and to 1300 rpm after eight minutes.


April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE 1.00 % GluCPX 1.50 2.00


% Oil Phase


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