126 MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


Sustainable lecithins for cosmetic formulations


Lucie Fontaine-Banckaert, Amandine Werle - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant


Lecithins are byproducts from the processing of oilseeds by the food industry. The complex mixtures of phospholipids in oils have amphiphilic properties that make them particularly interesting for the cosmetic industry. They can act as efficient emulsifiers, dispersing agents, and delivery systems. They also contribute to skin barrier support


and biomimetic formulation design. By adjusting their phospholipid profile, lecithins can be tailored to meet specific formulation and performance requirements. Within the personal care industry, lecithins


have a unique position. They bridge functionality and skin and hair compatibility, offering formulators a naturally derived alternative to synthetic emulsifiers. Their intrinsic affinity with the lipid structure of the stratum corneum makes them particularly valuable in dermocosmetics, sensitive-skin, and ‘clean beauty’ applications, where performance, tolerability, and regulatory acceptance must coexist. As brands move away from synthetic


emulsifiers to increase the naturality of their formulas, lecithins are increasingly viewed as multifunctional alternatives that can deliver both technical robustness and nice sensory profiles. However, the growing use of lecithins has


drawn attention to sourcing-related challenges. The cosmetic industry mainly use soy-derived


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026


lecithins and this is raising concerns around GMO status, agricultural traceability, environmental impact, and long-term supply resilience. At the same time, regulatory pressure and brand sustainability commitments are accelerating the need for more transparent and responsible lecithin supply chains. In response, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant


has implemented a structured strategy aimed at advancing more responsible lecithin sourcing, with 80% of them sourced from responsibly produced soy supported by third-party certification by 2030. This article reviews the functional role of


lecithins in cosmetic formulations, the limitations associated with their sourcing, and the strategy set in place for a more sustainable lecithin sourcing. Two concrete examples of cosmetic ingredients derived from responsible lecithin sourcing, Lysofix™ Liquid, an O/W bio-active emulsifier and Siligel™ SF, a gelling agent, illustrate how responsible sourcing and high performance can be combined in modern cosmetic ingredients.


The role of lecithins in cosmetic formulations In cosmetic formulations, lecithins are primarily used for their emulsifying performance in oil-in- water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) formulations, including creams, lotions, milks, and fluid emulsions.


Depending on their composition and level of


modification, lecithins can be used as primary emulsifiers or as co-emulsifiers to reinforce lamellar structures. Compared with conventional synthetic


emulsifiers, lecithins often provide broader formulation tolerance, particularly in formulas containing high oil loads or complex combinations of active ingredients. Their ability to form organized lamellar phases


contributes to improved stability over time and under stress conditions, such as temperature variation or mechanical shear, while supporting formulation strategies based on naturally derived raw materials. Beyond stabilization, lecithins offer unique benefits linked to their biological affinity with the skin. Their phospholipid composition closely resembles the one of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum, enabling the formation of biomimetic structures that integrate easily into the skin barrier. This affinity can support barrier function,


contribute to sustained hydration, and facilitate the delivery of lipophilic and hydrophilic actives. From a sensorial point of view, lecithins impart a soft, non-greasy skin feel and help modulate spreadability and absorption kinetics, attributes that are increasingly critical in high-performance skincare.


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