144 NATURAL INGREDIENTS
Moving on from petrochemistry towards bio-inspiration
Pascale Goyat – Natura-Tec
In the world of cosmetics, petrolatum, derived from petroleum distillation, has long held a prominent place due to its film-forming, emollient, and moisturising properties. However, its fossil origin, near-zero biodegradability, and inert but non-biologically active composition raise questions at a time when the industry is moving toward more sustainable and responsible formulations. Faced with this transition, plant-based
alternatives are multiplying, meeting growing expectations for transparency, eco-responsibility, and performance. At Natura-Tec, we have developed an exclusive range of 100% natural protective gels, designed to offer equivalent—or even superior— effectiveness while adhering to a minimalist, ethical, and sustainable formulation approach.
Synthetic versus natural petrolatum: advantages and limitations The use of mineral-based gels offers undeniable technical benefits: chemical inertness, high stability, skin tolerance, excellent occlusive power, and low production costs. These are all arguments that explain their historical popularity, particularly in dermatology and pharmacy. However, these benefits come with
significant limitations, both environmentally and dermatologically. The extraction of fossil resources, their transformation, and their subsequent persistence in natural environments due to their non-biodegradability pose major environmental problems. On the skin, their occlusive effect, while useful
in certain contexts, can become problematic: some reactive or blemish-prone skin types may poorly tolerate these materials, perceived as suffocating or even comedogenic in some cases. Faced with these limitations, the cosmetics
industry is turning to plant-based alternatives, which meet sustainability requirements while offering functional added value. Derived from renewable, biodegradable natural resources, these raw materials are fully in line with a circular approach. More than just a replacement, they introduce
a new approach: certain plant-based fats are not only neutral, but also play an active role in the formulation. Depending on their composition, they can exhibit anti-aging, moisturizing, or protective properties, making their integration all the more relevant. Sensoriality is also a driver of innovation.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
Whereas mineral oils had a relatively uniform texture, plant-based derivatives allow for fine modulation of feel: dry, melting, non-sticky... all characteristics favoured by today’s consumers, seeking comfort and naturalness. Moreover, their chemical composition, often similar to sebum or lipids naturally present in the skin, promotes better skin affinity, thus enhancing the overall effectiveness of skin care products. However, this transition is not without its
challenges. Plant-based fats require rigorous formulation. The compatibility, tolerance, and stability of finished products over time are becoming key issues to master. This is therefore a change that goes beyond
the simple replacement of one ingredient for another: it is a technical, sensory, and ethical evolution, serving more responsible cosmetics.
Biocompatibility and microbiome- friendly approach As cosmetic science evolves, the notion of biocompatibility; the capacity of a formulation to interact harmoniously with the skin and its ecosystem; has become a key differentiator. Beyond mere tolerance, biocompatibility embraces the skin’s biological balance, ensuring that formulations respect the integrity of the epidermal barrier and the microbiome, the living community of microorganisms that actively
contributes to skin health. Traditional petrolatum, while inert and non-irritating, creates a highly occlusive film that limits natural exchanges between the skin and its environment. This physical barrier can sometimes disrupt the skin’s physiological renewal processes or alter its microbiota by creating an overly sealed, oxygen-poor environment. In contrast, Natura-Tec’s natural protective
gels are designed with dynamic skin interaction in mind. Their composition—rich in plant-based triglycerides, esters, and naturally occurring fatty acids—mimics the structure of human sebum. This biomimetic approach promotes natural lipid
exchange, enhancing hydration while preserving the skin’s permeability and biological functions. The result is a balance between protection and breathability—what we call a living barrier. The skin microbiome plays a crucial role
in maintaining barrier function, modulating inflammation, and protecting against pathogenic invasion. Formulations that are overly occlusive or that rely on mineral hydrocarbons can unintentionally destabilize this ecosystem. Our 100% natural grades have been developed
to be microbiome-friendly, ensuring non- occlusive protection, allowing the skin flora to breathe and self-regulate. This gentle synergy between the skin and its flora promotes better tolerance, particularly for sensitive, reactive, or
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