136 EUTECTIC SYSTEMS In this context, ANDES highlight the potential
of eutectic systems as a versatile platform for next-generation personal care formulations, where stability, efficacy, formulation simplicity, and sustainability are addressed together through system-level design. The following case study on eutectic
hyaluronic acid illustrates how these ANDES principles can be applied in practice to re- engineer a well-established cosmetic active within a structured eutectic liquid environment.
Case study: eutectic hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely recognized for its exceptional water-binding capacity and its role in supporting skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier function. However, its cosmetic performance is constrained by high molecular weight, viscosity limitations, susceptibility to enzymatic degradation, and restricted penetration into deeper skin layers.3 Eutectic hyaluronic acid illustrates how
eutectic design can be applied to a well- established cosmetic active to unlock enhanced performance. By embedding HA into a eutectic matrix, its physicochemical environment is transformed, enabling improved hydration efficacy at significantly reduced active concentrations.
Mechanisms of stability enhancement Eutectic systems can enhance hyaluronic acid stability by forming a structured intermolecular- bond network that limits water activity and reduces enzymatic accessibility. This organized microenvironment hinders hyaluronidase- mediated depolymerization, preserving hyaluronic acid molecular integrity and functional performance over time.4 Reduced free water availability further
suppresses hydrolytic degradation pathways, contributing to prolonged stability during storage and after application.
Dermal delivery and skin interaction Beyond stabilization, eutectic systems influence dermal delivery by modulating the interaction between actives and the stratum corneum. Hydrogen-bond donors and acceptors within the eutectic matrix may transiently interact with skin components, facilitating diffusion without
Parameter
Active concentration in formula
Superficial hydration-mean improvement
Deep hydration – mean improvement
Skin barrier function (TEWL) statistical significance (T0 vs 3 weeks)
Formulation implication Overall delivery efficiency Dermal Delivery and Skin Interaction
Figure 3: Schematic representation of dermal delivery modulation by eutectic systems
disrupting barrier integrity. Unlike aggressive penetration enhancers, eutectic systems rely on reversible, non-disruptive interactions, supporting suitability for sensitive-skin applications.
Clinical, formulation, and sustainability impact Clinical evaluations of eutectic hyaluronic acid formulations have demonstrated superior surface and deep hydration compared to conventional hyaluronic acid, despite using substantially lower active concentrations. Improvements in barrier function, elasticity, and
tolerability have been observed, alongside reduced formulation complexity. From a sustainability perspective, eutectic
systems offer additional advantages. Components are typically biodegradable, derived from renewable feedstocks, and compatible with clean- label standards. Reduced water activity may contribute to intrinsic microbiological robustness, potentially
Conventional ‘free’ hyaluronic acid (Control) Reference level (100%) +49% +6%
Healthy range Significant for hydration parameters
Higher dose required to reach target efficacy
Conventional diffusion-limited behaviour
Eutectic/ANDES-based hyaluronic acid Up to 80% lower active level +68% +9%
Healthy range Significant for hydration parameters
Higher efficacy at reduced active load
Enhanced functional availability via eutectic structuring
Table 1: Comparative cosmetic efficacy and safety of conventional (‘free’) vs eutectic (ANDES-based) hyaluronic acid systems. Clinical test, n=15, female panellists ranged in age from 19 to 66 years old, 3 weeks, PROTOCOLS Nº: 0189-25B-09EMOD1-0244-25-09E
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
lowering preservative demand. Manufacturing processes are generally low-energy and scalable, supporting broader industrial adoption.
Conclusion Eutectic systems represent a structural advance in cosmetic formulation, offering a new framework for addressing long-standing challenges in active stability, delivery, and formulation efficiency. By incorporating actives into supramolecular
liquid networks, Active Natural Deep Eutectic Systems provide enhanced functional performance while supporting simplified and more sustainable formulation design. The eutectic hyaluronic acid example illustrates how established actives can be re-engineered through eutectic structuring to meet modern performance expectations. Extending these principles to additional
cosmetic actives is an active area of development, underscoring the potential of eutectic systems as a versatile platform for next-generation personal care formulations.
PCM
References 1. Espino M, Fernández MA, Gomez FJV, Silva MF. Natural designer solvents for greening analytical chemistry. Trends Anal Chem. 2016;76:126–136
2. Lorenzetti AS et al. Native Fluorescent Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents for Green Sensing Applications: Curcuminoids in Curcuma longa Powder. ACS Sustain Chem Eng. 2021
3. Zanchetta C et al. Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Applications: The Various Forms and Biological Effects of a Hero Molecule in the Cosmetics Industry. Biomolecules. 2025;15:1656
4. Smith Buarque FS et al. Choline chloride- based deep eutectic solvent as an inhibitor of metalloproteases (collagenase and elastase) in cosmetic formulation. 3 Biotech. 2023;13:219
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