128 MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
vs cationic-33%*
Before
After Figure 3: Pictures of hair swatches before and after application of product
explants from which hair in anagen phase were isolated demonstrated that the RSBE significantly increases the level of Ki67 (Figure 2), a protein marker present in actively dividing cells but absent in resting cells. Its increased expression means higher cell division rates. The hair follicle length was significantly
increased by +22%, confirming the revitalization of hair cell activity. The RSBE also increases the expression specialized keratins K71 and K40, by respectively factors x3 and x9, reinforcing the hair from within. These effects translate into improvements
in hair fibre structure, strength and cosmetic appearance, illustrating the multifunctional potential of emulsifiers derived from responsibly sourced lecithins.
An eco-conscious gelling agent with a silky-soft feel From responsibly sourced lecithins, it is also possible to develop an eco-conscious gelling agent (ECGA) designed to deliver both functional performance and refined sensory attributes. The optimized combination of polysaccharides
and lecithin creates a synergistic effect on viscosity, achieving 23% more viscosity than what would be expected from the sum of each gum separately. Its structure provides stability across a broad range of temperatures and pH conditions. This ECGA creates a three-dimensional network
capable of effectively entrapping oil droplets, contributing emulsion stability and long-term suspension of dispersed phases. Its versatility allows incorporation at different stages of the formulation process and supports both cold and hot manufacturing methods. Formulators can incorporate it into the
water phase at the beginning of production or add it after emulsion formation to fine-tune a formula’s viscosity or sensory properties. Unlike
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
most conventional thickening agents that require neutralization, the ECGA eliminates this step, simplifying the formulation process. Furthermore, it offers superior ease of use
compared to traditional natural gums such as xanthan or sclerotium gums. The presence of lecithin in its composition facilitates smooth dispersion, effectively preventing lump formation even during cold processing. From a sensory perspective, the optimized
composition of this ECGA improves glide and spreadability while imparting a soft after-feel often associated with silicone-based systems, within a naturally derived formulation system. The phospholipids present in the ECGA are
essential not only for providing its technical properties, but also for delivering significant skin and hair benefits. The phospholipids they contain are skin-identical molecules that, when applied topically, demonstrate strong affinity with the stratum corneum and can merge with it, reinforcing its barrier function to keep the skin significantly hydrated. This was demonstrated through a clinical study
on 20 female volunteers aged between 19 and 57 years old having dry skin on their legs. Three areas were delimited on the right and left leg of each volunteer A formula containing 2% ECGA or a placebo were applied on two separate zones. The third zone was left untreated. The results showed that compared to the
placebo, the formula containing the ECGA induces a significant decrease in TEWL from 2 hours after the application (-13%) and this reduction remains significant until 24 hours after application (-5%). By decreasing TEWL, the ECGA delivers instant and long-lasting moisturizing effects. Another study was focusing on hair to evaluate
the anti-flyaway effect of the ECGA on dry hair. Caucasian hair swatches were used, on which either a formula containing 1% ECGA or a placebo
formula containing 1% cationic agent was applied. The strands were combed before a photo was
taken, after which the photos were evaluated to analyse the area corresponding to the tress as a whole (in green) and the area referring to frizz (in red). Compared to baseline, the ECGA reduces the red area by 57%. When compared to cationic placebo formula, it decreases flyaway hair by 33% (Figure 3). The effect of the ECGA on hair glossiness
was also evaluated. Results showed significant enhancement in hair glossiness immediately after application. These effects are attributed to the ability of phospholipids to integrate with the lipid structure of the hair fibre, forming a lightweight film that smooths the cuticle, and enhances light reflection without creating buildup.
Conclusion As lecithins continue to play a central role in modern cosmetic formulations, the sustainability of their sourcing has become a strategic priority for the personal care industry, and specifically for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant. Challenges related to GMO status, traceability
and environmental impact are driving the adoption of more responsible sourcing models supported by certification, transparency and supply chain engagement. Lysofix Liquid, an O/W bio-active emulsifier and
Siligel SF, a gelling agent, illustrate that responsibly sourced lecithins can deliver high levels of functional performance, sensory quality and biological efficacy in both skin and hair applications. By integrating sustainability considerations at
the raw material level with advanced ingredient design, we demonstrate that environmental responsibility and formulation performance can converge, providing formulators with new options toward more sustainable, high-performance cosmetic products.
After Fly-away ■ Bulk ■
PCM
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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