ANTI-POLLUTION 37
400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Dry cold stress Morus alba-NaDES 0.5%
+ -
+160%
****
250 200 150 100 50 0
+ +
**** p<0.0001
Figure 4:Morus alba - NaDES complex increases filaggrin expression Through cutting-edge experiments, this
Morus alba - NaDES complex has then been characterized as a phytochemical concentrate that mirrors the silk protective role in nature, helping to build an adaptive and protective cocoon of softness against environmental stressors.
Pre-clinical evaluation of the Morus alba - NaDES complex Phosphoproteomics is the study of phosphorylation and emerges as an innovative approach capable of uncovering hidden regulatory mechanisms, including the rapid adaptive responses of keratinocytes not revealed by proteomics. Combining phosphoproteomics approaches
with bioinformatics analysis, proteomics and tissue engineering, Gattefossé unveils that the Morus alba - NaDES complex is able to significantly modulate protein phosphorylation in keratinocytes, activating critical signaling pathways for epidermal homeostasis and adaptation. Keratinocytes were cultivated in a monolayer
and treated with Morus alba - NaDES complex at 0.25% for 48 hours. The phosphoproteome profiling was determined using LC-MS/MS method coupled with bioinformatic analysis. The main outcomes were the following: ■ Over 18,000 phosphosites were quantified in keratinocytes’ cultures. ■ 33% of identified phosphoproteins were modulated by the Morus alba - NaDES complex, all involved in signaling pathways related to skin homeostasis, differentiation, and barrier function. ■ Four relevant signaling pathways were significantly activated in treated keratinocytes: the PI3K/Akt, mTORC1 and mTORC2, PAK and MAPK pathways. They are respectively involved in cell growth, barrier formation, cell junctions and keratinocyte differentiation (Figure 2). ■ The Morus alba - NaDES complex induces the phosphorylation of proteins involved in all keratinocyte anchorage junctions, including desmosomes such as plakophilins and desmoplakin, adherens junctions such as E-cadherin, tight and gap junctions such as TJP2 and GJA5, keratin proteins, and cornified envelope proteins. ■ Interestingly, proteomic data confirmed
www.personalcaremagazine.com Dry cold stress Morus alba-NaDES 0.5%
+ -
+109%
**
+ +
** p<0,01
Figure 5:Morus alba - NaDES complex improves the trans-epithelial electrical resistance and restores the skin barrier
these results: structural proteins such as keratin, filaggrin, involucrin, and cornified envelope proteins have recorded boosted expression with the treatment (Figure 3). By modulating the phosphorylated status of
various adhesion junctions and structural proteins, the Morus alba - NaDES complex would promote the dynamic cohesion of cells and the capacity of keratinocytes to quickly adjust the barrier function to external climate conditions. To validate these findings in unpredictable
climate-stressed conditions, a 3D reconstructed epidermis was pre-treated with the Morus alba - NaDES complex at 0.5% and exposed to dry cold stress (10°C, 40% relative humidity) along with concomitant treatment. Results indicate that the treatment helps the
skin adapt to climatic stress: ■ The increase in filaggrin expression by 160% signifies a restored epidermal cohesion (Figure 4) ■ The significant increase in trans-epithelial electrical resistance (+109%) in stressed-treated epidermis, along with the persistent localization of the Lucifer Yellow dye in the stratum corneum, confirms the strengthening of the skin barrier function compared to the untreated condition (Figure 5).
Placebo Taken together, the results indicate that the
Morus alba - NaDES complex is able to stimulate the functional vitality of keratinocytes and their ability to perceive and adapt to external signals through the fine modulation of phosphorylation. This stimulation translates into a reinforced
integrity for the barrier function, forming an agile protective cocoon for the skin facing unpredictable climate conditions.
Skin protected in a cocoon of well- being, softness, and comfort Two parallel clinical trials were run to measure the cosmetic efficacy of a cream containing the Morus alba - NaDES complex over one month of use. The Caucasian panelists presented dry skin associated with skin sensitivity, discomfort sensations, and microrelief irregularities. In the first study, a cream infused with 2% of
the Morus alba - NaDES complex was compared with a placebo cream (split-face application, twice daily) through various scoring and instrumental methods. The second study involved methods issued from humanities, social sciences, and neurosciences to characterize the emotional responses linked to the use of the active cream. Results indicate a significant effect of the
Morus alba- NaDES complex
Figure 6: Hydration mapping Variation D28-D0 in a.u. April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
Filaggrin / Dapi
Filaggrin expression (%) vs. dry cold stress
Lucifer yellow / Dapi
Trans-epithelial electrical resistance (%) vs. dry cold stress
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