MARINE INGREDIENTS 89 Taking diatom frustules as an example, this
ingredient has an abundance of hydroxyl groups on its surface making it a hydrophilic particle that is negatively charged at pH higher than 2. When dispersing the ingredient in the liquid phase this needs to be taken into consideration. In water, one strategy can be to disperse the particles in alkaline conditions (pH9-9.5). At this pH the hydroxyl groups will be mostly deprotonated creating a highly negatively charged surface and electrostatic repulsion between the particles. Before lowering the pH a stabilizing agent,
such as xanthan gum, alginate or cellulose fibrils, can be added. The stabilizing agent will hydrogen bond to the hydroxyl groups on the diatom frustules, thus immobilizing the frustules and keeping the dispersion stable over time. A challenging case has proven to be to add
the hydrophilic diatom frustules in anhydrous sunscreen formulations. In crowded formulations with physical UV-filters it can also be difficult to assess if the diatom frustules have been successfully dispersed. To address this problem, a pre-dispersion can be done that is later mixed in to the formulation (Table 1). The ingredients in this pre-dispersion are
chosen with care. Caprylic/capric triglyceride is the carrier oil in the system. This oil is a polar oil that will wet the hydrophilic surface of the diatom frustules more effectively than less polar oils like jojoba oil or coconut oil. Polyhydroxystearic acid (PHSA) is an amphiphilic ingredient. The polar groups on PHSA will interact with the hydrophilic diatom frustules while the non-polar parts of PHSA will interact with the carrier oil, creating a bridge between the hydrophilic particles and the carrier oil (Figure 3). Isopropyl myristate is added as a cosolvent in
the formulation, increasing the solubility of PHSA in the carrier oil and improving wetting of the diatom frustules. Similar anhydrous pre-dispersion can also be achieved using other amphiphilic ingredients such as glyceryl isostearate or lecithin. Formulators are also exploring synergistic
blends, where marine ingredients are combined with botanical actives or ceramides to enhance overall product efficacy. These hybrid approaches can yield multifunctional products that address hydration, barrier support, and environmental protection in a single formulation. Odour and colour can pose formulation
challenges. Some marine extracts carry a distinct marine scent or a natural green, red or brown
Feature
Polyhydroxystearic acid (PHSA) Isopropyl myristate (IPM) Caprylic/capric triglyceride Diatom frustules
Hydrophilic area ■ Hydrophobic area
Figure 3: The hydrophilic diatom frustule is dispersed in a hydrophobic oil using amphiphilic molecules. The amphiphilic molecule bridges the hydrophobic and hydrophilic areas with one hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail
coloration, which may not align with consumer expectations for certain product types. Techniques such as purification, microencapsulation, or combining marine actives with neutral carriers can help address these sensory concerns without compromising performance. Ultimately, success in formulating with marine
ingredients requires a deep understanding of both their biological origin and their chemical behaviour in cosmetic systems. With the right formulation approach, marine compounds can be transformed from delicate natural molecules into high-performance, consumer-ready skin care solutions. This intersection of science, nature, and innovation is where marine ingredients truly shine.
Sustainability: harnessing the ocean without harming it As the demand for marine ingredients in personal care grows, so too does the responsibility to source and develop these materials in a way that safeguards ocean ecosystems. The ocean may appear vast and inexhaustible, but many marine environments are under increasing pressure from climate change, overfishing, pollution, and habitat
Concentration [wt%] 3
10
86-86.5 0.5-1
Function
Amphiphilic dispersant Cosolvent, wetting agent Carrier oil
SPF booster
Table 1: The caprylic/capric triglyceride, PHSA and IPM is heated to 65°C under stirring to melt the PHSA. Diatom frustules are added to the hot oil and stirred until dispersed. Use a stirring speed that breaks up the agglomerates but avoid high-shear mixing. When dispersed the heat is turned off and the pre-dispersion is allowed to cool under stirring. The pre-dispersion can now be added to the formulation to achieve the wanted concentration of diatom frustules
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destruction. Ethical sourcing and sustainable innovation are therefore not just trends, they are necessities. One of the key challenges is avoiding
the overexploitation of wild marine species. Harvesting seaweeds, sponges, or plankton directly from the ocean can lead to ecological imbalances if not carefully regulated. To address this, many ingredient suppliers are
shifting towards cultivation and biotechnological production. For example, microalgae used in personal care are now commonly grown in land- based photobioreactors, where their growth conditions can be optimized without impacting natural ecosystems. These systems also allow for traceability and
consistency, two factors that are essential for both sustainability and product performance. Cultivated marine ingredients are not subject to seasonal variations or environmental contaminants, making them more reliable from a formulation perspective. In some cases, circular economy approaches
are being implemented. Fertilizing marine crops grown on land using waste streams, emanating from e.g. food production is suitable for upcycling resources that would have otherwise gone to waste. The fact that salt water is used reduces the strain put on freshwater resources. In many cases, byproducts from production
can also be used as fertilization for traditional food crops or to extract bioderived energy, further reducing waste and the environmental impact. Land-based cultivation of marine crops does not need to compete with traditional farming as it can be located on non-arable land; instead, it serves as a valuable and positive complement. Certifications such as Cosmos, Ecocert, and Blue Standard are guiding brands and formulators
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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