36 ANTI-POLLUTION


PAK pathway


P13K/Akt pathway SKIN HOMEOSTASIS CELL GROWTH


CELL JUNCTIONS EPIDERMAL DIFFERENTIATION


mTORC1 and mTORC2 pathways


MORPHOGENESIS BARRIER FORMATION


MAPK pathway EPIDERMAL DIFFERENTIATION


Figure 2: Modulation of four canonical pathways Phosphorylation involves the addition of a


phosphate group (PO4 3-) to serine, threonine,


or tyrosine residues on proteins. Catalyzed by kinases and reversed by phosphatases, this modification induces conformational changes that alter protein activity. Within the tightly regulated epidermis, phosphorylation-driven signaling pathways are essential for adaptive responses. Key pathways include MAPK/ERK pathway, which governs keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, and PAK pathway, which regulates keratinocyte migration, cytoskeletal remodeling, and cell adhesion. The coordinated phosphorylation of junctional


proteins represents a central mechanism for epidermal adaptation, finely tuning the balance between cellular cohesion and tissue plasticity.4 However, as skin matures, these regulatory mechanisms progressively lose efficiency. This decline leads to reduced cellular reactivity and dynamism,5


ultimately compromising epidermal


cohesion and the ability to respond effectively to rapid environmental fluctuations. By modulating phosphorylation at the


epidermal level, the skin can maintain agile, dynamic responses and preserve homeostasis, precisely what unpredictable climate-stressed skin requires.


The secrets for adaptation hidden in a cocoon With billions of years of trial and learning behind it, Nature is an invaluable source of innovation. Gattefossé researchers have looked at living systems that have the ability to adapt and protect dynamically and with agility. One such system is the Bombyx mori, which


can create an efficient and highly sophisticated structure around itself, the silk cocoon. Besides the silk versatile characteristics (light but robust, thin


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026


Proteins


Keratin 10 Keratin 1 Keratin 2 Filaggrin


Keratinocyte differentiation-associated protein Involucrin Cornifin-A Dermokine


FC vs. Untreated 2.177


3.082 3.906 5.954 3.233 1.896 1.578 2.142


Functions Cohesion


Differentiation Barrier function


Differentiation


Horny envelopes Barrier function


Figure 3: Proteomic profiling. Enriched content of proteins of interest (FC = Fold Change). Untreated keratinocytes are used as control.


but elastic…), this structure protects the insect from environmental extremes, predators, and pathogens, ensuring its survival in a dynamic world. The secret of the cocoon’s properties lies


in the silkworm’s exclusive diet with white mulberry (Morus alba) leaves. These leaves provide a unique blend of proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins, and organic acids, that are critical for the development of the insect and the quality of the silk produced.6 The unique relationship between the silkworm and the mulberry leaf is a complex alchemy, involving synergistic interactions that enable the production of a naturally engineered material with noble and protective properties. Inspired by this natural bioconversion,


Gattefossé looked at mirroring this phyto-structural complexity by combining the mulberry leaves into a structured solvent system, called NaDES.


Mirroring the silk protective role in nature NaDES (natural deep eutectic solvents) are nature-inspired solvents, mimicking nature’s way of solubilizing metabolites within plant cells. These complexes emulate the natural processes


that occur in plants through eutectic combinations of sugars and nitrogen compounds, assembled into a supramolecular structure. They enable the creation of diversified active compositions that are unattainable using conventional solvents. The phytochemical wealth ofMorus alba


foliage has been explored through a large screening of solvents, comparing conventional solvents to NaDES ones. A tailored solvent composed of fructose,


propanediol, and water was characterized as the best compromise between phytochemical richness and physico-chemical characteristics once formulated. This solvent is able to selectively extract polar and moderately polar metabolites, which are critical to the silk biosynthesis pathway. This customized Morus alba - NaDES complex


enables the efficient recovery of a wide range of protective compounds, such as hydroxycinnamic acids, mainly chlorogenic acid and flavonoids such as isoquercetrin. Interestingly, these polyphenols are described


in scientific literature as protective compounds for skin barrier function, involved in the modulation of proteins phosphorylation pathways linked to cellular repair.7,8


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132  |  Page 133  |  Page 134  |  Page 135  |  Page 136  |  Page 137  |  Page 138  |  Page 139  |  Page 140  |  Page 141  |  Page 142  |  Page 143  |  Page 144  |  Page 145  |  Page 146  |  Page 147  |  Page 148  |  Page 149  |  Page 150  |  Page 151  |  Page 152