MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS 43
GluCPX to an optimal stability zone at 1% to 2% GluCPX, with oil concentrations between 10% and 40% (Figure 2B). The sharp transition between stable and
unstable emulsions, reinforces the existence of a critical stability threshold. Above this threshold, emulsions remain consistently stable, whereas below it, instability is almost inevitable. This confirms that a minimum concentration of GluCPX is required for emulsion stabilization and that this threshold depends on the oil content. Regarding the synergistic performance of
the GluCPX blend: Glucomannan alone, xanthan gum alone, polyglyceryl-4-laurate (PG4l) alone all produced unstable emulsions that creamed rapidly and fully phase-separated within 24 hours. Even the combination of xanthan gum with PG4L did not provide meaningful stabilization (Figure 3). In contrast, the full GluCPX system yielded a
stable emulsion that has remained unchanged for more than two years. These results demonstrate that the emulsifying and stabilizing performance of GluCPX does not originate from any single constituent, but rather from the specific synergy between its components, which collectively enables robust and long-term emulsion stability.
Process stabilization – solid conditioner application The solid conditioner application illustrates an additional benefit of emulsion-based structuring enabled by GluCPX. Most solid conditioners on the market are composed of cationic surfactants combined with butters, oils, and fatty alcohols, and are generally totally water-free: this limits sensory performance, particularly in terms of pay- off and rinsability. To introduce GluCPX into this format, the
conditioner was designed as a water-in-oil emulsion (Table 2). The oil phase was defined based on a classical conditioner bar composition.
TABLE 2: SOLID HAIR CONDITIONER Phase Ingredient
INCI
A1 Cosmegreen ES 1822+1 Shea butter2
Coconut Oil2 Argan Oil2
Emogreen L193 B Water Glycerin2
Inawave Polyporus Hydrior PGLL44
C
Inagel Green/GluCPX5 Parfum Fleur de Coco6
Tocopherol7
Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil C15-19 Alkane Aqua
Glycerin
Water (and) Glycerin (and) Polyporus Umbellatus (Mushroom) Extract (and) Potassium Sorbate
Polyglycerol-4-laurate
Glucomannan (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Xanthan Gum
Tocopherol
Process: Heat phases A and B separately to 80°C. Add B in A 1000 rpm. Add C. Pour in mould while it is still hot. Aspect : Beige solid. Suppliers: 1: Surfactgreen 2: Cooper 3: Seppic 4: Lavollée 5: Inabata 6: AromaZone 7: BASF
Water content added in the emulsion was limited to guarantee the solidity of the formula. However, stabilizing low water contents in an inverted emulsion proved challenging, especially under melt-and-pour processing conditions. The combined use of a polyglycerol W/O
emulsifier and GluCPX enabled the stabilization of the emulsion during both heating and cooling, allowing the formulation to remain homogeneous until solidification. In contrast, when GluCPX was removed from
the same framework formula, phase separation occurred during cooling, with the aqueous phase remaining liquid at the bottom of the mould, demonstrating that the emulsifier alone was insufficient to ensure process stability. Beyond process robustness, the presence of water in the GluCPX-based conditioner impacted
the sensory profile of the final product. Compared to a waterless control, the emulsion-based conditioner exhibited improved pay-off while maintaining sufficient hardness to meet solid format requirements. This example highlights how GluCPX not only
enables the stabilization of water-containing solid systems but also contributes to enhanced sensory performance, making it a valuable tool for expanding formulation possibilities in solid cosmetic formats.
Suspensive and sensory performance – hand scrub application Formulation and sensory panel assessment The suspensive and sensory performance of GluCPX was assessed using an exfoliating scrub emulsion containing particles of a konjac
%
qsp 20
15 10 5
10 3
3 3 1
0.5 1
www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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