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ANTI-AGEING
Hallmarks that are targeted by Snow algae active
Figure 2: Snow algae active targets the hallmarks of ageing
nutrient sensing impair energy production, slowing skin repair. Senescent fibroblasts accumulate in the
dermis, weakening ECM maintenance, while stem cell exhaustion hampers skin regeneration. Chronic inflammation and microbiome dysbiosis increase oxidative stress and barrier dysfunction. Since these processes are interconnected, targeting multiple hallmarks simultaneously is essential for effective intervention.4
Snow algae, thriving in extreme environments Hidden within the icy alpine and polar landscapes, snow algae thrive in extreme environments like the Swiss mountains. These extremophiles survive freezing temperatures, intense UV radiation, and nutrient scarcity through adaptive strategies. Their life cycle begins with a green stage
in early summer, marked by active growth and reproduction. As summer progresses, they turn red on melting snow, entering dormancy by producing carotenoid pigments that protect against UV rays.5 During dormancy, red spores remain visible
on the snow, conserving energy until conditions improve. Snow algae also produce secondary metabolites like biopolymers for water retention, antifreeze glycoproteins to prevent ice damage, and stress modifiers to manage environmental challenges. These unique properties make snow algae a valuable resource for skin care and protection. We therefore investigated the effect of a
cosmetic active ingredient (Snow algae active, INCI: Coenochloris Signiensis Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua/Water) on the ageing clock in skin cells, on seven hallmarks of ageing as well as on the improvement of several skin parameters in placebo-controlled clinical studies.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
Methods Epigenetic age clock analysis in human dermal fibroblasts Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were cultured over several weeks with culture medium containing or not the snow algae extract, to obtain different passages of aged fibroblasts. At the start of the experiment (passage 7), at an intermediate timepoint (passage 13) and at the end (passage 17), part of the cells was frozen and stored for genomic DNA (gDNA) extraction. To determine the epigenetic age, and therefore
the biological age of the samples, genomic DNA was sequenced using Illumina methylation arrays. The data was then analysed and aligned according to the Horvath Clock, an epigenetic clock based on specific sets of CpG sites, whose altered DNA methylation levels yield the cell’s age.
Beta-galactosidase activity assay HDFs were seeded in 96 well plates and incubated with senescence-induction medium. The cells were grown either in presence or absence of snow algae extract for 14 days. Afterwards, nuclei were stained with Hoechst blue reagent for cell number normalization, and fluorescence readings were measured in a multimode plate reader. After, cells were washed, lysed and spider
beta-gal was added. Beta-galactosidase activity was measured with a fluorescence plate reader. Recorded values from the beta-gal assay were normalized to cell number and beta-gal activity was expressed in percentage compared to untreated control. A student t-test was performed for statistical analysis.
Proteomics Primary human keratinocytes were treated either with or without 0.0625% snow algae extract in a pro-ageing medium, which makes the cells
age faster, or a control medium. From there, protein expression was analysed by proteomics. Regulated proteins were grouped according to their biological function, and the effect of the pro-ageing medium on their expression levels was quantified and used as the baseline, set to 100%.
Clinical studies With the aim of further substantiating its anti- senescence effect, we tested our snow algae active in vivo on a panel of 20 female volunteers aged between 45 and 65 years (mean age: 54.3 years), during summertime in Portugal. A cream containing 2% snow algae active was applied twice daily for 28 days to one-half of the face, while the other half was treated with a placebo formulation. An analysis of epidermal senescent cell count and morphology was performed using confocal microscopy, both before and after treatment, directly in the volunteers’ skin. As well, UV-spots area variation was measured, by capturing images of the volunteer’s faces while exposing the patients to a UV lamp. Additionally, in a double-blind study
performed with 21 Caucasian volunteers (19 women and 2 men) of phototype II and aged between 30 and 57 years (mean age: 43.8 years) during wintertime the effect of snow algae active on the skin’s barrier function was tested. Volunteers applied an emulsion with 3% snow
algae active on one-half of their faces or the corresponding placebo on the other half of their faces three times per day for a period of 21 days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured before and after treatment on the face (cheeks) using a tewameter. In a third study, an emulsion containing 2%
snow algae active or the corresponding placebo were applied twice daily for 14 days to the inner side of the forearm of 20 women aged from 40
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