64 MARINE INGREDIENTS
by ELISA as mechanistic biomarkers, providing protein-level evidence that supports the proposed mode of action alongside the in vivo outcomes.
Fast moisturisation via marine glycan water binding and film formation Sulphated polysaccharides are strongly hydrophilic and can hold substantial amounts of water. On skin, they can form a cohesive, water- binding film that buffers humidity fluctuations and reduces transient dehydration between applications. This type of film also improves tactile
perception by smoothing the microrelief of dry skin, which may translate into a softer look and feel. The strong hydration uplift observed at two hours and the sustained effect at 24 hours fit this biophysical mechanism well.
Activating the epidermal hydration circuit: AQP3 support Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is an aquaglyceroporin expressed in keratinocytes that transports both water and glycerol across cell membranes. Glycerol is not only a humectant; it also functions as an osmolyte that influences stratum corneum plasticity, supports enzymatic desquamation, and contributes to barrier recovery. Increasing AQP3 availability or activity can
therefore support the skin’s intrinsic hydration physiology by facilitating more effective distribution of water and glycerol within the viable epidermis and helping maintain a more hydrated stratum corneum over time.
Dermal resilience and firmness: ProCollagen I support Skin firmness depends on the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), particularly Collagen I. Dermal fibroblasts synthesize ProCollagen I as a precursor before it is processed and assembled into mature collagen fibres. Increased ProCollagen I content suggests stimulation of early collagen biosynthesis processes and aligns with measurable firmness improvement after repeated use. A hydrated ECM microenvironment can also support fibroblast function, and marine polysaccharides are sometimes described as ‘GAGlike’ in behaviour — helping structure water and contributing to a more resilient dermal matrix milieu.
Study overview The evidence package summarized here combines two in vitro biomarker models with an in vivo body care performance evaluation. In vitro, AQP3 was quantified in human
keratinocytes by ELISA after treatment with Sarcothalia C across 0.0025–0.025%. ProCollagen I was quantified in adult dermal fibroblasts by ELISA after treatment across 0.005–0.025%. In vivo, Sarcothalia C was applied at 0.025%
powder in the finished formula and benchmarked against a placebo control and 0.1% hyaluronic acid, with hydration assessed at two hours, 24 hours and 14 days, barrier function assessed via TEWL improvement at 24 hours and 14 days, and firmness assessed at 14 days (reported as change in 1/R0).
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026
TABLE 1: IN VIVO PERFORMANCE End point
Timepoint 2h Hydration
Barrier function (TEWL)
14 days Firmness 24h
14 days 24h
14 days 14 days
Key outcome (2% reconstituted Sarcothalia C, equivalent to 0.025% powder)
+52% vs baseline (p<0.0001); +17% vs placebo (p<0.01); +13% vs 0.1% hyaluronic acid (p<0.05)
+58% vs baseline (p<0.0001); +27% vs placebo (p<0.01); +20% vs 0.1% hyaluronic acid (p<0.05)
+37% vs baseline (p<0.001); +19% vs placebo (p<0.05)
+22% barrier improvement vs baseline (p<0.0001); ˜3× stronger than placebo (p<0.05)
˜3× stronger than placebo (p<0.01); ˜7× greater than 0.1% hyaluronic acid (p<0.05)
+18% vs baseline (p<0.0001); ˜4× greater than placebo (p<0.05)
Early timepoints (2 h, 24 h) capture the
immediate effect of film formation and water binding, while 14-day values represent performance under real-use conditions where washing, clothing friction and environmental stress repeatedly challenge the barrier. A sustained benefit at day 14 is therefore meaningful for body care.
Results In vitro biomarker results AQP3 and ProCollagen I biomarkers provide mechanistic anchors that help translate the hydration and firmness story into cellular biology. Human keratinocytes (AQP3, ELISA): 138% of
control at 0.0025–0.025% (p<0.05) Adult dermal fibroblasts (ProCollagen I, ELISA):
124% of control at 0.005–0.025% (p<0.05) These results suggest that Sarcothalia C supports both an epidermal hydration pathway (AQP3linked water/glycerol transport capacity) and a dermal resilience pathway (ProCollagen Ilinked collagen biosynthesis processes). In vivo performance Hydration: The magnitude of improvement at two hours indicates a strong immediate moisturisation
effect. Importantly, hydration remained high at 24 hours, suggesting that the hydration film is not purely transient and that the formula/active combination supports water retention over daily cycles. The maintained benefit at 14 days suggests performance under real-world conditions, where frequent washing and friction typically erode shortlived hydration boosts. Barrier function (TEWL): A reduction in trans
epidermal water loss indicates improved barrier efficiency. The strong barrier improvement at 24 hours suggests early support of the barrier system — potentially through reduced dehydration stress and a more organized surface film — while day 14 results show that repeated use helps maintain a better barrier state. Firmness: The 14 day improvement indicates
a fast-acting benefit for body skin quality. While collagen remodelling is typically associated with longer timeframes, measurable firmness changes can arise from improved hydration and barrier quality (which influence mechanical properties) as well as early ECM biosynthesis signals. The ProCollagen I biomarker increase is consistent with this direction of effect.
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