RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS 111 Alkane Gel Control


TABLE 4: COMPOSITION OF LARGE PARTICLE GLITTER LIPSTICKS USED TO EVALUATE THE SUSPENSION EFFICIENCY


w/w (%) Phase A Ingredient / INCI


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Coco-Caprylate/Caprate


CCC Gel/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hectorite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Oleate


B C A B Beeswax / Cera Alba


Carnauba Wax / Copernicia Cerifera Cera Candelilla Wax / Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Craft Glitters


Test lip balm Control lip balm 68.00 -


68.00 10.00


10.00 4.00


4.00 4.00


10.00 -


4.00 4.00 4.00


10.00


TABLE 5: COMPOSITION OF EFFECT PIGMENT LIPSTICKS USED TO EVALUATE THE SUSPENSION EFFICIENCY


w/w (%) Phase A Ingredient / INCI


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Coco-Caprylate/Caprate


CCC Gel/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glyceryl Oleate


A B


Figure 3: Lip balm containing a brown effect-pigment mixture. (A) Control formulation without the alkane gel, showing visible pigment agglomeration. (B) Formulation with the alkane gel, showing a richer, more saturated colour due to improved pigment dispersion


particles can migrate or settle, leading to visual defects, uneven colour distribution, and inconsistent payoff. A robust rheology modifier helps build and maintain structure, improving the formulation’s ability to hold particles in suspension. In anhydrous hot pour systems such as lipsticks and balms, the molten phase provides only temporary fluidity, and without adequate structure, heavier particles—including effect pigments—can settle before the stick fully sets. This results in uneven distribution throughout the bullet.


CCC Gel Control B


Red 6 Castor Oil Dispersion / Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850 Yellow 5 Al Lake Synthetic Wax Dispersion / Synthetic Wax, CI 19140 Beeswax / Cera Alba


Carnauba Wax / Copernicia Cerifera Cera Candelilla Wax / Euphorbia Cerifera Cera


C Effect pigment / Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide To evaluate the performance, two lipstick


formulations were prepared containing large particle glitters (Table 4) and effect pigments (Table 5), chosen because their size and density make them particularly prone to sedimentation. As shown in Figure 4 and 5, the differences between the samples are clearly visible. In the control samples (without CCC Gel), particle settling during cooling is visible. In contrast, formulations containing CCC Gel


maintained uniform suspension, with particles remaining evenly dispersed from top to bottom.


CCC Gel Control


Test lip balm Control lip balm 70.24 -


70.24 10.00


10.00 0.24


2.52 4.00 4.00 4.00 5.00


-


0.24 2.52 4.00 4.00 4.00 5.00


This improved suspension performance is attributed to the physical network formed by hectorite-based particles, which provides early structural support during cooling and prevents particle migration and settling. Beyond hot pour systems, the suspension


performance can also be demonstrated through its impact on yield point, a key rheological parameter relevant to liquid and semisolid colour cosmetics. The network of the hectorite-based particles


builds a bonded, three-dimensional structure within the oil phase, imparting thixotropic behaviour and generating a measurable yield point—defined as the minimum stress required to initiate flow. Yield point is directly linked to suspension efficiency: the higher the yield point, the better the formulation can support pigments and effect particles against settling. Comparative testing shows a higher yield


point (Figure 6) in a liquid highlighter formulation containing the alkane gel, compared to the control formulation without the alkane gel (Table 5), which does not have a measurable yield point due to formulation instability. This visual difference is clearly illustrated


Figure 4: Lipstick bullets containing large-particle glitters. The formulation with CCC Gel shows fully suspended glitter and a uniform colour throughout the bullet, whereas the control formulation without CCC Gel exhibits glitter settling toward the tip and a non-homogeneous colour distribution


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Figure 5: Lipstick bullets cut in half containing effect pigments. The formulation with CCC Gel shows the effect pigments suspended more homogeneously throughout the bullet, whereas the control formulation without CCC Gel exhibits pigment settling toward the tip


in Figure 7, where the control sample shows pronounced pigment deposition at the bottom of the vial, while the formulation containing the alkane gel remains homogeneous, with no visible settling. This confirms that the use of the alkane gel enhances the formulation’s stability and ability to maintain uniform particle suspension and distribution over time. In addition to preventing particle settling, the next generation organoclay gel also plays a critical


April 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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