78 MARINE INGREDIENTS
skin care routine to alleviate skin redness. An imbalance in the skin’s microbiota can
result in inflammation, which is caused by the release of inflammatory molecules such as interleukins. Interleukins are key cytokines that regulate acute and chronic inflammation, and they act as messengers between the cells involved in the inflammatory process. They are released when tissues become inflamed, to boost the development of certain immune cells. For example, interleukin (IL)-8 is a potent pro-
inflammatory cytokine that is produced by various skin cells in response to inflammatory stimuli.20 The potential of the Codium NaDES extract to inhibit IL-8 was evaluated in vitro in UV-stressed fibroblasts. The fibroblasts were treated with 0.5% and
0.05% of the extract prior to irradiation with UVA at 5 J-cm-2
, and were then compared with a
negative control (irradiated fibroblasts without pretreatment) and a positive control (irradiated fibroblasts pre-treated with Transforming Growth Factor TGF-β at 20 mg-mL-1
). After incubation for 48 hours, the supernatants
were collected and the IL-8 concentration was assessed. The extract significantly (p<0.05) reduced the IL-8 concentration by 27% and 30%, respectively, at 0.5% and 0.05%, compared to the negative control (Figure 5). The positive control, which reduced IL-8
concentration by 36%, was reached with the supplementation of the extract at 0.05%. Thus, the Codium NaDES extract was found to protect the fibroblasts against the release of IL-8, thereby reducing inflammation and having a soothing effect on the skin. A clinical study evaluated erythema and skin
redness in 44 Caucasian women over 56 days. The volunteers were divided into two groups: one group applied a cream containing 3% Codium NaDES extract twice daily, while the other group applied a placebo cream without the extract. A dermatologist assessed erythema by scoring the variation in erythema between days 0, 28 and 56. The results showed a significant (p<0.001)
reduction in erythema scoring when the Codium NaDES extract was applied at 3%, with reductions of -19.7% and -25.6% on days 28 and 56, respectively, compared to day 0 (Figure 6). The placebo also showed a significant (p<0.01)
reduction in erythema scoring of -10.5% and -13.4% at days 28 and 56 compared to day 0, respectively. However, the erythema reduction effect was greater with the Codium NaDES extract as the scores were significantly (p<0.05) lower for the extract than for the placebo at both days 28 and 56, with reductions of -11.5% and -15.8%, respectively. Skin redness reduction was also assessed in the
volunteers. It was measured using a colorimeter to determine the variation in the a* parameter, which characterises colour variation along a green-to-red axis. The results showed a significant (p<0.001) reduction in redness for both the placebo and the 3% Codium NaDES extract, of -5.6% and -18.1% respectively (Figure 7). However, the effect was significantly (p<0.01)
greater with the extract, which reduced redness by 15.0%, compared to the placebo. The effect of the
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026 Placebo 0.00
-2.00 -4.00 -6.00 -8.00
-10.00 -12.00 -14.00 -16.00 -18.00 -20.00
*** Extract at 3% D28 0 -5
-10 -15
-20 -25 -30
** ** *** * *
Figure 6: Scoring variation of erythema induced by the placebo (black) and the Codium NaDES extract at 3% (grey) in % compared to D0 at D28 and D56. Significant differences compared to the negative control determined by Wilcoxon test are indicated by red stars (***) p<0.001; (**) p<0.01, and significant differences compared to the placebo determined by Mann-Withney test are indicated by black stars (*) p<0.05
*** D56
*** **
Figure 7: Skin redness variation induced by the placebo (black) and the Codium NaDES extract at 3% (grey) in % compared to D0 at D56. Significant differences compared to the negative control determined by Wilcoxon test are indicated by Red stars (***) p<0.001, and significant differences compared to the placebo determined by Mann-Withney test are indicated by black stars (**) p<0.01
cream containing 3% Codium NaDES extract was also visually observed using Visia-CR pictures taken on two volunteers at days 0 and 56, for whom skin redness was reduced between the start and end of the clinical study (Figure 8).
Conclusion Agrimer has developed SeaCalm, a soothing and microbiota-friendly ingredient for sensitive skin derived from the green seaweed Codium tomentosum. The benefits of the extract have been proven in both in vitro and clinical studies. Results suggest that the Codium NaDES extract improves harmony and comfort for sensitive skin, possibly through prebiotic and postbiotic properties. The extract maintains the balance of the skin’s microbiome, enhances comfort and brightens the complexion by reducing redness. Its compounds could be used by the beneficial skin bacterium Staphylococcus epidermidis to promote its growth, resulting in healthy skin microbiota. Furthermore, the Codium NaDES extract
maintains and preserves skin flora biodiversity, promoting a speedy return to equilibrium after washing. It also acts on inflammation and skin redness, reducing the concentration of interleukin (IL)-8 in UV-stressed fibroblasts and reducing skin redness and erythema. This article thus demonstrates the potential of NaDES marine technology applied to seaweed,
offering new perspectives on the design of innovative, sustainable and natural cosmetic ingredients for the future of skin care.
Author acknowledgements This work was developed as part of the OCEACTIF collaborative project with the following academic institutions: the Rennes Institute of Chemical Sciences/COrInt (UMR 6226 CNRS-UR1) and the Station Biologique de Roscoff (UMI 3614 and UMR 8227 CNRS-UMPC). Special acknowledgement is given to Ludovic Paquin, Emmanuelle Limanton and Lucie Percevault (COrInt) for their work on the NaDES marine technology.
References 1. Benvenutti L, Zielinski AAF, Ferreira SRS. Which is the best food emerging solvent: IL, DES or NADES? Trends in Food Science Technology. 2019; 90, 133–146
2. Choi YH, Verpoorte R. Green solvents for the extraction of bioactive compounds from natural products using ionic liquids and deep eutectic solvents. Current Opinion in Food Science. 2019; 26, 87–93
3. Zhang Q, Vigier K, Royer S, Jérôme F. Deep eutectic solvents: Syntheses, properties and applications. Chemical Society Review. 2012; 41, 7108–7146
4. Choi YH, van Spronsen J, Dai Y, Verbene M, Hollman F, Arends IWCE, Witkamp G-J,
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PCM
Redness variation between D0 an D56 in %
Scoring variation of erythema in % compared to D0 at D28 and D56
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152
