92 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS


Functional oligosaccharide for sensitive skin


Yui Sunada – Nagase Viita


Sensitive skin-defined as a condition that responds to stimuli with discomfort that would not normally cause such sensations-has become one of the most widespread concerns among consumers worldwide. This trend accelerated during the Covid-19 pandemic due to increased hygiene practices such as mask-wearing, frequent handwashing, and sanitizer use, which compromised the skin’s barrier function. Even after the pandemic, many of these


hygiene practices have become deeply ingrained; a 2025 consumer survey revealed that 32% of US consumers identify now themselves as having sensitive skin.1 Beyond visible or functional changes in the skin, sensitive skin also impacts psychological well-being and overall quality of life. A US consumer survey underscores the severity of this condition: most notably, one-third (33%) of individuals report that sensitive skin ‘strongly’ affects their overall quality of life, while an additional 52% are impacted ‘to some degree.’2 Symptoms such as itching and stinging are


reported to contribute to sleep disorders, fatigue, stress and anxiety—demonstrating that the impact of sensitivity reaches far beyond the skin itself.3 Parallel to this growing awareness and its


influence on daily life is a rising demand for personal care products specifically formulated for sensitive skin. Market data from Japan illustrates this trajectory, with shipment values for sensitive skin care products increased from ¥59.2 billion ($383.5m) in 2015 to ¥95.6 billion in 2023.4 Cleansing products are a major consideration


in sensitive skin care because the surfactants they contain can trigger sensitivity by disrupting the skin barrier through damage to intercellular lipids and proteins.5


Although low-irritancy surfactants


have been developed to meet the demand for gentle cleansing, many still fall short in providing sufficient cleansing and foaming performance. Consequently, there is a growing demand


for functional ingredients that protect the skin from surfactant-induced irritation without compromising performance. Beyond skin-compatible cleansing,


today’s consumers demand a superior sensory experience—characterized by rich foam and a smooth after-feel—alongside a reduced environmental footprint, all of which are essential contributors to psychological well-being. Accordingly, formulators today face the technical challenge of achieving effective


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE April 2026


cleansing with minimal irritation, without compromising foam quality or sensory appeal. MG-60 (INCI name: Maltooligosyl Glucoside


(and) Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate) is a naturally derived carbohydrate liquid developed using Nagase Viita’s proprietary enzyme technology. Its main component, maltooligosyl glucoside, is a group of oligosaccharides characterized by a trehalose-based structural motif at the terminal end (Figure 1). Trehalose is a naturally occurring disaccharide


composed of two glucose molecules linked by an α-1,1-glycosidic bond and is recognized for contributing to desiccation tolerance in nature. Owing to its distinctive molecular structure, trehalose exhibits superior hydration capacity compared to other oligosaccharides.6 While maltooligosyl glucoside liquid shares


certain properties with trehalose, such as protection against dehydration stress,7


its distinct


molecular weight distribution and structure are expected to provide unique benefits and textures in personal care products. In this study, we evaluated the effects of


maltooligosyl glucoside liquid in cleansing formulations, focusing on its ability to reduce surfactant-induced irritation while maintaining


cleansing performance and providing a favourable sensory experience, in response to increasingly complex consumer and formulation requirements.


Results Protective effect against surfactant-induced skin roughness To evaluate the effect of maltooligosyl glucoside liquid on surfactant-induced skin roughness, a human patch test was conducted.8 Twenty Caucasian male and female subjects


received three separate applications on the back: a 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) solution containing maltooligosyl glucoside liquid at concentrations of 2% and 5%, and a placebo 2% SLS solution. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and a* values, an indicator of skin redness, were measured before patch application and at 1, 2, and 24 hours after patch removal, and percentage changes from baseline were calculated. Exposure to 2% SLS markedly increased TEWL,


indicating impaired barrier function (Figure 2A). This increase was significantly attenuated by the addition of 5% maltooligosyl glucoside liquid, and showed a decreasing trend with 2%. Similarly, the SLS-induced rise in a* value was significantly reduced by 5% maltooligosyl


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