FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 95
Amino acid surfactants Zschimmer & Schwarz offers amino acid surfactant solutions under the brand name Protelan: LS 9011/SL (INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate), AGL 95 (INCI: Disodium Lauroyl Glutamate), AGL 95/C (INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) and GC (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate). Additionally, in our portfolio there are some very special products based on amino acid surfactants. Lumorol K 5601 (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is an example for the thickening principle described in the last section. It is a sulfate- free ready-to-use blend which enables the formulator to reversibly create an end- product viscosity of about 4.000 mPa∙s via pH-adjustment to about 5.5.3
In Sebumol S
1000 (INCI: MIPA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate) advantage of the liquid form of cocoyl sarcosine and its alcohol amine salts is taken: It is a clear, liquid and (nearly) water-free product. The surfactants in this product are completely made from natural building blocks. Mixtures of S 1000 with different oils can be used for PEG-free shower oil applications. Additionally, they are excellent PEG-free makeup removers.16
Table
1 shows an example formulation. The ingredient Sebumol ODPC was introduced earlier.16
a completely natural basis.
It is a special moisturising ester with Aqueous cocoyl glycinate solutions like
Protelan GC tend to be viscous. They can have a viscosity of several thousand mPa∙s. Some customers prefer low viscous products. As mentioned before, cocoyl glutamate is an excellent hydrotropic surfactant to reduce the viscosity of surfactant solutions. So, we added small amounts of cocoyl glutamate to GC. The resulting product is Protelan GG (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) which has an easy-to- handle viscosity of about 100 mPa∙s. It still has all the positive properties of cocoyl glycinate. Table 2 shows a body shampoo formulation which takes advantage of the mentioned principle to enhance viscosity by pH-adjustment. The viscosity of this formulation is about 10.000 mPa∙s at pH 6. Another way to decrease the viscosity of cocoyl glycinate solutions is to reduce the salt content drastically. The salt content (sodium chloride) of conventional 30% cocoyl glycinate solutions like GC is about 5%. In GC-D (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate), the desalted version of GC, it is below 0.2%. This product has a viscosity of about 100 mPa∙s. Some Protelan-Types are ideal candidates for natural cosmetic applications. AG 8-EC (INCI: Disodium Capryloyl Glutamate) and AGE-C (INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) are COSMOS and Ecocert Cosmetics approved. AG 8-EC is a short-chain (C8)
April 2020 0 7.0 6.0 5.5 pH Figure 7: Thickening by lowering the pH.
derivative with additional bacteriostatic and deodorising properties. For some customers propylene glycol-
free cocoyl glutamate solutions are of particular interest for natural cosmetic applications. Propylene glycol-free Protelan-Types are AG 915 SF (INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate) and AG 37 (INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate). Both products are COSMOS approved and in the process of NATRUE certification. The properties of AG 915 SF were already discussed in detail earlier.16
AG 37 was presented at
in-cosmetics Global 2019 in Paris. It matches the high requirements of natural cosmetic products concerning purity. With AG 37 we succeeded in developing a product with a salt content (sodium chloride plus sodium glutamate) below 0.2%. Table 3 shows a shower gel formulation which is suitable for natural cosmetics. Two surfactant blends containing cocoyl glutamate were developed for natural cosmetic applications. Lumorol K Natural (INCI: Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Alcohol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside) is the
Table 1: PEG-free luxurious facial Cleansing Oil Ingredients Almond oil
INCI Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil SEBUMOL S 1000
Isopropyl palmitate Macadamia nut oil SEBUMOL ODPC Perfume
MIPA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Poly- glyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil Octyldodecyl PCA Parfum (Fragrance)
‘natural’ counterpart of K 5601 from the same series. It was also introduced at the in-cosmetics Global 2017 in London and is a ready-to-use-blend. A 40% aqueous solution of K Natural can be thickened via pH-adjustment (Fig 7). Via lowering the pH the glutamate carboxylate groups are more and more discharged by protonation. By this, the strong viscosity decreasing effect of acyl glutamates is steadily reduced towards a (partial) “knock-out”: The ‘wedge’-effect is weakened which is equal to a viscosity increase. The additional trigger ‘salt’ for coco sulfate can be used to support the viscosity increase in lower concentrated solutions of K Natural: The viscosity of a 28% solution at pH 4.9 is about 8.000 mPa∙s when 0.6% salt (sodium chloride) is added. The other blend, Zetesap 915 CS, is a suitable raw material to prepare natural syndet wash pieces. The surfactants in this product are coco sulfate and cocoyl glutamate. The advantages of using this product were described earlier.2
Both
blends are ideal candidates for natural cosmetic products. In each of them cocoyl glutamate is able to reduce the ‘harshness’ of coco sulfate.
w/w% 53.75
30.0
10.0 4.0 2.0
0.25 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 5.3 5.0 4.7 18000
13500
9000
4500
Viscosity in mPa·s
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