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42 NATURALS


be calculated. Thus, according to standards like ASTM D6866, carbon-14 testing, which is applicable to liquids, solids, and gases, determines the amount of biomass-based material used in the formulation of a product compared to more readily available and less expensive petrochemical-derived alternatives.3


Carbon-14 test results are reported as a


percentage of biobased content, representing the portion of the carbon in the product that is sourced from biomass resources. A product wholly comprised of plant-based material will result in 100% biobased content. Material that is a mix of biomass and petroleum sources will have a result that ranges between 0% and 100% biobased content. For example, a result of 80% biobased content means that out of all the carbon in the product, 80% is biomass- based and 20% is petroleum-based – so it is not truly all natural. If carbon-14 results yield 0% biobased, this indicates the product is completely comprised of petrochemical material.4 Measuring a product’s biobased content is used as an effective marketing tool, allowing manufacturers and distributors to communicate the use of biobased ingredients to consumers. This too fulfils consumer desire for transparency. There are several third-party certification programs, such as the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) BioPreferred®


Program,


that recommend or require carbon-14 testing for eligible products to display certified biobased eco-labels on products.


Certifying plant-based content Biobased certifications and eco-labels allow manufacturers and distributors to visibly demonstrate the use of plant-based content to consumers, strengthening product appeal. The USDA BioPreferred Program promotes the use of biobased products through its two-part Voluntary Labeling Program and Federal Procurement Preference Program. The goal of the Voluntary Labeling


Program is to help consumers identify biobased products available in the market.5 Under this programme, applicants must submit their products to an approved testing laboratory to measure the biobased content following the ASTM D6866 Standard. To qualify for the certification and attendant USDA Biobased label, the percent of biobased content must meet or exceed the established minimum biobased content standards of the appropriate product category.5


Case Study: Inolex, Inc. Inolex is a personal care ingredients manufacturer that specialises in using sustainable practices, following the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, to create


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Carbon-14 testing.


biobased ingredients without compromising expected performance. Inolex certifies ingredients under several industry standards and has recently added USDA BioPreferred certifications to its portfolio. The USDA BioPreferred programme allows Inolex to achieve a certification that displays the specific percentage of biobased content for materials containing over 62% biobased content.5


This allows for the recognition of using primarily biobased feedstocks, even if it does not result in 100% natural-sourced ingredients. Lisa Gandolfi PhD, director of marketing of Inolex, stated: “the USDA BioPreferred Program filled a gap in the industry certification landscape by providing a standardised and quantitative measurement of the biobased content of an ingredient.”


She added that the USDA BioPreferred biobased content certification was especially valuable to the launch of Inolex’s new natural cationic technology, AminoSensyl™. The amino-lipid technology is leveraged into hair care and skin care under two different products: AminoSensyl HC and AminoSensyl SC, respectively.


Although there were preceding technologies in the cationic hair conditioning category that were COSMOS approved, these were not 100% biobased. Amino-lipid technology from Inolex is the first of its kind to accomplish 100% naturality in a cationic conditioning agent. Using Beta Analytic (a testing laboratory specialising in carbon-14 analysis) and the USDA BioPreferred Program, Inolex was able to differentiate its 100% natural- sourced technology from competitors on the market that were not entirely biobased. This enables consumers to discern that the ingredient not only complies with the


COSMOS standard like its competition but that it is also 100% derived from plant sources. Both AminoSensyl HC and AminoSensyl SC contain 100% USDA- certified biobased content. The USDA certification process was also applied to existing products in the Inolex portfolio. Inolex certified other unique technologies with high sustainability profiles that are primarily biobased. ProCondition™ 22 is a sustainable improvement on amidoamines with 83% USDA-certified biobased content. Carbon- 14 testing by Beta Analytic plus the USDA biobased certification scheme support the sustainability profile of this ingredient, despite that it is not 100% naturally sourced. Inolex has recently initiated the certification process with the USDA BioPreferred Program for all its ingredients that meet the minimum 62% biobased content criteria for personal care intermediates.


Similar to the certification of personal


care intermediates, finished goods companies can certify not only formulations that are 100% plant-based but also formulations that may have a few percentage points of outstanding non-biobased material. This certification allows for specific and empirical results of the naturality of an ingredient or formulation reducing the affect of intentional or inadvertent greenwashing.


Conclusion Validation of personal care and cosmetic ingredients is key for manufacturers and distributors as consumer demand for natural, plant-based products remains high and an increased expectation of transparency in advertising emerges. Inolex demonstrates its ability to visibly portray biobased ingredients through the use of Beta Analytic’s carbon-14 test, yielding


April 2020


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