SUN CARE 121
types of radiation, through direct or indirect DNA damage, are associated with cellular damage and can have carcinogenic effects. Moderate exposure to UV light, however, has beneficial health effects such as UVB promotion of vitamin D synthesis, immune response and haemoglobin boosting or contributing to wellbeing feelings. In addition, heliotherapy is used to treat skin problems as psoriasis, vitiligo or atopic dermatitis.
Balance, therefore, should be sought
through moderate exposure and the use of suitable photo-protection for each skin type. To protect skin from excessive UV radiation, the classical solution has been the development of sunscreens with chemical or mineral filters, or combinations. From one side, the chemical filters contain aromatic groups and carbonyl groups that absorb UV radiation (mainly UVB) and disperse it through conformational changes in the molecules, emission of radiation with larger wavelength and energy in the form of heat. On the other side, the physical filters are titanium dioxide TiO2
and zinc oxide
ZnO, which form a physical barrier on the skin and act through the dispersion, reflection and absorption of the UV radiation. The most used are TiO2 nanoparticles for UVB protection and ZnO for UVA protection.
Table 2: EnhanceU filters Reference enhanceU-S
INCI enhanceU-T
enhanceU-T- medium
enhanceU-T- warm
Zinc oxide, Titanium dioxide, Silica Titanium dioxide, Silica
enhanceU-T-light Titanium Dioxide, Silica, CI-77492, CI-77491 Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI-77491, CI-77499 Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI-77491, CI-77499
enhanceU-T-tan Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, CI-77491, Silica, CI-77499 enhanceU-T-rich Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, CI-77491, CI-77499, Silica
enhanceU-T- exclusive
(customized tonality )
In this context, ADPCosmetics proposes the use of latest generation non-nanometric mineral UV filters as an alternative to chemical or traditional mineral filters. These filters (Table 2) protect from both UVB and UVA radiation. The features of the filters make them suitable to meet the following major challenges in formulation:
High-SPF and broad-spectrum protection With the minimum filter concentration (ca. 12-15wt%), formulas can reach SPF 30-50+ and ratio UVA/UVB>0.6. As a reference,
Type of UV filter Non-nano
Non-nano
Non-nano with colour Non-nano with colour
Non-nano with colour Non-nano with colour
Non-nano with colour Non-nano with colour
regulations state that concentration of no more than 25wt% of mineral filters in formula can be used (more restrictive for chemical filters) and UVA/UVB>0.3 should be obtained.
Photostability
The covering of silica ensures the photostability of these mineral filters. When irradiating samples that contain different mineral filters (same INCI: Titanium dioxide, silica) or chemical filters (avobenzone stabilised with octocrylene), the graphs (Fig 4) show that the mineral filters maintain
Measurement of TEWL and Beyond - Tewameter® TM Hex
The worldwide acknowledged open chamber measurement method of the Tewameter® has - ched a new level:
rea
Thirty pairs of sensors giving 15 times more information than the previous two pairs
High amount of data for each single measure- ment supplying extremely accurate, reproduci- ble and quick results for the first time for skin and ambience above the probe
Explore new exciting parameters:
Local skin energy balance: for the first time it is possible to separately measure the transepider- mal heat loss by heat diffusion from the body and evaporation cooling through water vapor.
Water vapor concentration: the actual drive of
TEWL (skin and ambience) Relative Humidity of skin and ambience
Visit us and explore the possibilities: in-cosmetics global stand AA28 Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH
Cologne •Germany •Phone +49-221-9564990•
info@courage-khazaka.de •
www.courage-khazaka.de• • April 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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