142 SKIN PROTECTION


excellent, instant restructuring capacity and leading to an ‘instant repair’ effect.


Test on strands To confirm the ‘instant repair’ effect, a formulation containing 0.4% regenerated sericin was tested on human hair strands damaged with a 30% solution of SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulphate). The experiment was conducted under standardised and controlled conditions described as follows:


Methods Two strands were moistened with 100 ml of tap water and then dabbed dry. The strands were then damaged by soaking them in 30 % SLS solution for 24 hours. Following the induced damage, the strands were washed out with tap water at temperature of 30 ± 2 °C until all foam disappeared, dabbed with absorbent paper and dried with a 2100 Watt hairdryer. A fixed quantity, 0.7-1 grams, of product was applied to the strands and then combed with a tooth comb. This quantity mimics the intended for use quantity of the consumer. The negative control group followed the same procedure on the same number of strands, but no product was applied.


The strands were again dried and then left on a vertical support for thirty minutes. Photographs and visual inspection used to evaluate the product tested and negative control group, were performed after these procedures. A clear improvement of the aesthetic characteristics of the hair strands treated with the compound can be observed versus the control group.


The hair was also photographed under a


microscope. The horizontal section of the hair shows the presence of three concentric layers called marrow, bark and cuticle, the outermost layer. The negative control hairs strands showed deterioration of the cuticle, whilst the treated strands showed a partial restructuring of the cuticle. Micrographs (photomicrographs) show a


repairing effect observed as the partial restoration of the damaged hair cuticle.


simply makeup but ‘caring makeup’ able to protect the skin every day from pollution. The natural ‘shield-former’ inclination of


regenerated sericin offers new perspectives also for hair care. Sericin is certainly well known for its hair-affinity, but the test results underline how it can re-texturise hair cuticles, re-structure hair fibres, and give a fuller, healthier look to hair. In today’s world, new, sustainable


resources must consider transformation processes linked to each and every resource; sustainable, transforming, natural are the basis of a global circular economy. Innovation, sustainability and beauty are


Figure 5: Hair strands stressed control (not treated).


Conclusion Optimising waste recovery from silk processing has made it possible to obtain a very pure regenerated sericin, ideal for use in skin care, makeup and hair care formulations. This is an example of how innovation can extend into sustainability, enhancing its expression.


Not only is it sustainable, but also


efficacious. Studies and tests conducted have demonstrated its ability to protect the skin from the harmful action of atmospheric particulate matter. Our regenerated sericin therefore has dual efficacy: it acts as a shield, protecting the skin from direct deposition of particulate matter; it facilitates its removal during washing, as it limits particulate matter skin adhesion. It can therefore be added to any cleanser, making it more active and effective in the daily purification of facial skin. Its use in medicine is known for wound suturing and coagulation. Its use results in a more radiant skin (+ 43%). Regenerated sericin, thanks to its ability to preserve the skin from adverse external actions, acts as a booster of its natural radiance: the skin is purified more effectively, resulting in a natural and healthy glow.


The potential for a new generation of makeup-to-fight-pollution could be developed with innovative claims: it is not


all terms of a perfect equation, capable of supporting the contemporary formulation. The idea of transforming a waste product, in this case from silk processing, to an effective skin product becomes sustainable innovation, the only one possible today. It is a synonym for beauty and sensory awareness linked to sustainable, effective and innovative ingredients.


PC


References 1 Park S-Y, Byun EJ, Lee JD, Kim S, Kim HS. Air


Pollution, Autophagy, and Skin Aging: Impact of Particulate Matter (PM10) on Human Dermal Fibroblasts, Int J Mol Sci. 2018; 19(9): 2727.


2 Liao Z, Nie J, Sun P. The impact of particulate matter (PM2.5) on skin barrier revealed by transcriptome analysis: Focusing on cholesterol metabolism. Toxicol Rep. 2019; 25;7:1-9


3 Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2003;17(6):663-9.


4 Dominguez MC, Sole E, Goñi C, Ballabriga A. Effect of aluminum and lead salts on lipid peroxidation and cell survival in human skin fibroblasts. Biol Trace Elem Res. 1995; 47(1- 3):57-67.


5 Chung WY, Benzie IF. Probe-assisted flow cytometric analysis of erythrocyte membraneresponse to site-specific oxidant stress. Cytometry. 2000; 1;40(3):182-8.


6 Mass P, Hoffmann K, Gambichler T, Altmeyer P, Mannherz HG. Premature keratinocytedeath and expression of marker proteins of apoptosis in human skin after UVB exposure. Arch Dermatol Res. 2003;295(2):71-9.


Figure 6: Hair strands stressed then treated with product. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2020


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