LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 69 Placebo NightessenceTM 0.5%
Lavender extract without small RNA
+51%*** Figure 4: Melatonin immunostaining on skin biopsy with application of Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.5%. Placebo NightessenceTM 0.5%
Lavender extract without small RNA
ns ***: highly significant, ns: not significant, with Student’s t test
+20%*** Figure 5: Timezyme immunostaining on skin biopsy with application of Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.5%.
the skin. It demonstrates promising anti- ageing and repairing benefits for the skin. It is described to increase longevity protein, sirtuin1; induce autophagy, the skin cleaning process; display anti-inflammatory properties. Melatonin is also a free radical- scavenger, it promotes antioxidative and DNA repair systems that facilitate skin’s recovery from environmental damage. 2,3 Timezyme, also called arylalkylamine N- acetyltransferase (AANAT) is the enzyme of the conversion of serotonin to melatonin. Timezyme is a true night enzyme as its activity is 100 times more elevated during nighttime. It is the key enzyme in the regulation of melatonin production.4,5 Daylight or light-at-night was previously shown to generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) within the cells. In this study, visible daylight was applied on keratinocytes (Fig 6) in culture to mimic the day/night cycle. The production of ROS was monitored by a specific fluorescent probe. The application of the new lavender flower extract during night time was associated with a reduction of ROS levels, indicating lower oxidative stress damage (Fig 7). Moreover, the generation of dark DNA damage induced by UV irradiation was
April 2020
visibly decreased following the application of the new lavender flower extract on cultured melanocytes.
An answer to the growing beauty sleep trend
Sleep like a princess and awaken with beautiful skin; is this not the dream of every woman on Earth? A recent Mintel study has reported that 80% of women (in France, Germany, Italy, Spain) agree that getting enough sleep is an important part of looking after the skin. However, having a good night’s sleep is not the case for most people such as 39% of French according to the INSV (Institut National du sommeil et de la Vigilance). In 2018, 5 million more Americans were experiencing some sleep difficulties.14 Product innovation for anxiety, stress, mood, and sleep is increasing in all categories. The “beauty sleep” or “clean sleep” is extremely trendy nowadays. “Clean sleep” is about the habits and behaviours that can improve the quality of sleep and help feel better rested. It is the new societal quest for wellness and success. Consumers understand well the link between sleep and lifestyle factors with skin
appearance, mental and physical health. The importance of good sleep is a focus in news and health institute research.15,16 With the new lavender flower extract, Ashland is leveraging off the beauty sleep trend and provides an answer to the negative impact of sleep problems on skin. The new lavender flower extract has been clinically tested in a cream at 1% on volunteers showing a rested, renewed and illuminated skin with fewer dark circles by morning.
A clinical study on 36 Asian volunteers who have night shift work or always stay up very late has been carried out. The new lavender flower extract at 1% in a cream or a placebo was applied for 28 days. Dark eye circles were evaluated with a Visia-CR and Mexameter.
78% of volunteers have seen an
improvement on the side treated with the cream containing the new lavender flower extract at 1% (Fig 8).
Conclusion
Nightessence is water-soluble and can be easily formulated at 0.5% to 1% for different applications such as “beauty sleep”, “clean sleep”, “good night” concept, night repair
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
ns ***: highly significant, ns: not significant, with Student’s t test
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