174 SKIN PROTECTION
Strengthening natural protection against light
n Sonia Léglise – Naolys, France
Naolys has created a new complex of Indian jasmine cells enriched with γ-mangosteen to develop a unique biological protection for the skin.
Jasmine is a well-known oriental flower, famed for its scent and its sacred status in Asian religions; it opens at the end of the day so as to release its full olfactory power. The γ - mangosteen is an extract from the fruit of the mangosteen tree; widely used in traditional Asian medicine, it has come to be recognised in the west for its antioxidant properties. Enriched by the synergy with the γ - mangosteen, the plant cells increase the bioavailability of all the active ingredients that they deliver to the skin.
A new active ingredient
Since the skin is exposed to light rays every day, it is necessary to prevent and reduce the damage they cause to the skin and to provide in-depth protection of the skin cells during exposure, for stronger skin that looks younger for longer. Naolys’s ingredient, named LightWaves Defense [JS+M], offers a range of benefits to the wellbeing and protection of skin against light. It reinforces the skin’s firmness, suppleness and elasticity by maintaining the level of key components of the dermis and revives the complexion’s radiance, making it brighter and more uniform. LightWaves Defense [JS+M] reduces redness by stimulating skin microcirculation and protects DNA, thereby reducing damage caused by UV, IR and blue light. LightWaves Defense [JS+M] (now
referred to as ‘the enriched jasmine cell complex’) can be used in skin care or makeup products, such as creams, fluids, serums, balms, lotions, milks, foundations, concealers, etc., and any skin care or makeup products intended to protect the skin from sun damage.
How it works Reinforced biological protection The sun is essential not only for the synthesis of vitamin D, which enables us to fix the calcium and phosphorus we need for
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Reduction of damage caused by light Because some light rays are so powerful they can penetrate to the heart of skin cells, Naolys decided to study not just the cells’ environment, but also their DNA, which is ultimately the radiation’s target. Light radiation or free radicals produced by radiation can cause changes in DNA bases or breaks in the strands. Cells with damaged or destroyed DNA can no longer function properly; genetic mutations make the cells unsuitable for their roles or completely change the way they function. The enriched jasmine cell complex protects the mitochondrial DNA that is responsible for correct skin cell function.
our bones, but also for the prevention of depression, the regulation of our internal clocks, and to improve our ability to learn, among other things. However, while it is important to us, it is also very dangerous in high doses, and several visible and invisible forms of radiation can damage the skin. Until a few years ago, it was thought that only UV rays affected skin cells, but recent studies have shown that unfortunately almost all types of light affect the skin. Depending on their wavelength, they cause various cutaneous malfunctions that accelerate the skin ageing process, thereby changing the skin’s external appearance, by producing slackness, redness, spots, lines and wrinkles (Fig 1).
Various components of the dermis are essential for maintaining the skin’s structure, such as proteoglycans (hyaluronic acid), collagen and elastin. They provide the skin with support, firmness, flexibility and elasticity. The production of all of these is affected by light rays that accelerate the effect of enzymes that destroy them. The enriched jasmine cell complex protects the dermis’ essential components that are responsible for the skin’s characteristics. Skin microcirculation consists of blood and lymph flow. It enables the supply of nutrients that are essential for correct cell function. However, the blood vessels are also linked to other skin mechanisms, such as inflammation, which increases vasodilation. Sunlight can cause inflammation and redness after just a few hours of exposure. The enriched jasmine cell complex preserves skin microcirculation, responsible for reddening of the skin. With its dual-level targeted protection, the enriched jasmine cell complex enhances the skin’s radiance and youth aspect.
Clinical test results Decrease in signs of ageing after 28 days - two applications/day Study conditions: Tests were carried out for 28 days on a sample of 20 women aged 35 to 55 years-old, with various skin types; Application twice a day of an emulsion with 0.5% of the enriched jasmine cell complex (dispersion form).
Figure 1: Solar rays and their effects on skin. April 2020
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196
