FRAGRANCES 157
A new fragrance resource for ‘natural’ products
n Jo Jacobius – CPL Aromas, UK
More and more brands demand fragrance and other ingredients that are ‘natural’. But consumers and CPL Aromas’ customers ask: ‘What is natural?’. The answer is far from simple, but CPL has found a solution, according to Angela Stavrevska, perfumer and the company’s global marketing & brand director. CPL Aromas has consolidated years’ worth of natural perfumery experience, marketing knowledge and regulatory expertise into their new Naturals Platform – a system by which CPL can advise, educate and create 100% natural fragrances, ensuring their customers’ marketing requirements are at the forefront of every project. Angela Stavrevska said that the Platform’s
creation is designed to help customers navigate the dynamic natural fragrance market. She explains: “The naturals market is often driven and confused by vague claims and a glossary of terms that doesn’t have official industry recognition or firm definition. We decided to make things easy and clear for customers to pick the right route for their consumers. We have therefore consolidated our marketing, regulatory, raw material and creative expertise in order to help customers understand and tackle the 100% natural fragrance market via our succinct and understandable Naturals Platform. By engaging with our customers in an educational and transparent way, it gives them the ultimate choice as to what product claims
Asked to give some examples of issues and challenges facing CPL’s perfumers and the Group’s customers that this Naturals Platform will help resolve, Angela Stavrevska commented: “We have found that the naturals market is often driven by marketing claims that have very little grounding or are very vague, especially outside of the EU. For consumers, it is difficult to know what to buy and for our customers it is difficult to know what types of products to create to satisfy these confused consumers. This in turn leads to very bewildering creative briefs for our perfumers. In being open about the different types of natural materials and natural aromachemicals we have within our palette and understanding what our customers want to give to the end consumer, we can bring clarity to the perfumer’s brief.
“Our customers can also be confident in their claims about naturals and in turn be able to communicate their natural ethics more clearly to their consumers, which can only be a good thing.” There is often a large gulf in
they want to make, and how we can supply just the right materials that support those claims.”
Angela Stavrevska, CPL Aromas. April 2020
CPL Aromas has categorised all natural materials into three classifications. Asked to explain what led to the development of these categories, Angela Stavrevska said: “Not all naturals are created equal. From where and how a natural material is extracted or created (in the case of materials created via white biotechnology processes) will have a bearing on whether the material has had petrochemical solvents or GMOs used in the supply chain or whether the product is vegan. Some petrochemical solvent usage is acceptable under industry-recognised natural guidelines set out by COSMOS, whose guidelines we have followed when developing our Naturals Platform. But we have also gone one step further than COSMOS and classified some of our naturals more stringently, whereby they do not have any petrochemical usage in the supply chain. As a principle we have never allowed GMO derived materials on our raw material palette.”
understanding about what ‘naturals’ means across the supply chain and through to consumers. CPL’s Naturals Platform has been set up so that all-natural fragrance creation across the global CPL business is possible. However, some markets are more developed than others, but as the developed markets evolve, the Group plans to continue developing the understanding to ensure all customers benefit.
Greenwashing and ‘chemophobia’ The cosmetic and fragrance industry has always been very marketing driven and often the technical elements of raw materials are not understood clearly by, or have not historically been of much interest to, marketing teams. Now that consumers have so much more information available to them from so many different sources they are keen to understand more. Some of the information in the public domain is incorrect, vague or open to misunderstanding and this leads to widespread confusion. Angela Stavrevska points out the difficulties once misinformation takes hold: “Once
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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