ANTIPERSPIRANTS 113
as an anticholinergic drug for primary axillary hyperhidrosis (Fig 2). In plants, tropane alkaloids from the family Solanaceae have well-documented anticholinergic activity and are used as pharmaceuticals for a range of conditions. Examples include atropine, hyoscyamine (Fig 2), and scopolamine.
Protein aggregation
Disulfide bonds and non-covalent interactions help stabilise proteins in their native state. Changes to these non-covalent interactions can destabilise the protein structure, leaving it susceptible to misfolding or unfolding. Protein aggregation can occur as a result of misfolding, resulting in a large macromolecular structure. Sweat collected at the skin surface is mainly composed of water containing sodium chloride and a low concentration of proteins and solutes. Aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH) is capable of causing protein aggregation, which may be one of its mechanisms of action. In experiments with natural and artificial sweat, Bretagne et al.2
determined the
presence of proteins was essential for sweat pore plug formation when using a typical ACH antiperspirant formula. Using micro- focused X ray scattering, they found sweat plugs were composed of ACH and proteins. When they removed proteins from the artificial sweat, plugs did not form. They concluded a reaction between highly ionic aluminum polycations and sweat proteins caused the aggregation and plug formation. Although plant natural products do not have the same ionic properties as aluminum salts, many are capable of interacting with proteins, causing misfolding and aggregation. For example, tannins (Fig 3) derived from tree bark have been used commercially to tan leather through their protein binding, precipitating, and cross-linking properties. They are also used commercially as coagulants and flocculants, aggregating proteins and other organic compounds for easier removal from liquids such as beer and wastewater.
Ingredients from nature In recent years, there has been a global uptick in products marketed as ‘natural antiperspirants’ with an array of plant-based ingredients. Some of the most common ingredients include aloe, various plant starches, green tea, and plants with essential oils like members of the mint (Lamiaceae) and citrus (Rutaceae) families, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia), and sandalwood (Santalum album). From a scientific standpoint, none of these ingredients have been reported as clinically effective antiperspirants, although many are antibacterial, have a pleasing fragrance,
April 2020
Table 2: TCM herbs for sweating5-10 Latin name Acorus spp.
Agastache spp. Angelica dahurica Artemisia spp.
Astragalus propinquus Coptis chinensis Ephedra sinica
Eupatorium fortunei
Fraxinus chinensis subsp. rhynchophylla
Morus spp.
Nardostachys jatamansi Nepeta spp. Portulaca spp.
Pueraria montana var. lobata Syzygium aromaticum
Common name Sweet flag Hyssop
Dahurian angelica Wormwood
Milkvetch, Huáng Qí Golden thread Ephedra
Fortune eupatorium Ash tree Mulberry Family
Acoraceae Lamiaceae Apiaceae
Asteraceae Fabaceae
Ranunculaceae Ephedraceae Asteraceae
Oleaceae Moraceae
Chinese Nardostachys Caprifoliaceae Japanese catnip Purslane Kudzu Clove
Lamiaceae
Portulacaceae Fabaceae Myrtaceae
and could potentially absorb sweat in the case of plant starches. In ethnobotanical literature, there are a number of plants, fungi, and minerals prescribed as antiperspirants. This is especially true in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) and Ayurveda.
Ingredients from plants In both TCM and Ayurveda, there are
Part
Stems, leaves Stems, leaves Root
Stems, leaves Root
Rhizome Root
Stems, leaves Leaves
Leaves Root
Stems, leaves Stems, leaves Root
Flower
numerous oral remedies for sweating caused by a systemic ‘imbalance’, stress, obesity, or illness like malaria or tuberculosis. There are far fewer topical formulations for everyday sweating or hyperhidrosis. One published study tested a product made from five Ayurvedic herbs (first five herbs listed in Table 1) traditionally used for the control of foot odour and excessive sweating.3
Fifty subjects applied PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Table 1: Ayurvedic herbs for sweating2-4 Latin name
Cedrus deodara
Chrysopogon zizanioides Curcuma caesia Cyperus rotundus
Jasminum auriculatum Acacia catechu Areca catechu
Glycyrrhiza glabra Hemidesmus indicus Nardostachys jatamansi Pavonia odorata
Phyllanthus emblica Sida cordifolia
Symplocos racemosa
Common name Himalayan cedar Vetiver
Black turmeric Nut grass
Indian Jui, Jasmine Khadira Betel nut Licorice
Indian sarsaparilla Spikenard
Family
Pinaceae Poaceae
Zingiberaceae Cyperaceae Oleaceae Fabaceae Arecaceae Fabaceae
Apocynaceae Caprifoliaceae
Fragrant swamp mallow Malvaceae Indian gooseberry Bala
Lodhra
Phyllanthaceae Malvaceae
Symplocaceae Part
Bark, oil, leaves, resin
Root
Tuber Tuber
Flower, root, leaf Bark and wood Fruit Root Root Root Root Fruit
Seeds, leaves, root Bark
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