176 SKIN PROTECTION Hydroxyproline (mg/L) Hydroxyproline (mg/L) Hydroxyproline (mg/L)
+18% +24% +28%
Control UVA/UVB LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+
LD[JS+M] (1%)+
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+
UVA/UVB UVA/UVB UVA/UVB Figure 4: Study of collagens. Hyaluronic acid
This is glucosaminoglycan (long chains of polysaccharides), a component of a very large proteoglycan in the ECM. Its role is to attract water molecules (1g of
hyaluronic acid can retain up to 6 litres of water) and it also contributes to tissue flexibility. At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
there was an increase of hyaluronic acid rate at the level of fibroblasts exposed to UVA/UVB respectively of 21%, 25% and 31%; exposed to blue light respectively of 21%, 29% and 35%; exposed to infrared light respectively of 19%, 27% and 33%.
Collagen (Fig 4) These are the most abundant fibrous proteins in the interstitial ECM and constitute the ECM’s main structural component. Collagens provide resistance to
stretching, regulate cell adhesion, support chemotaxis and cellular migration, and help to direct tissue growth.
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
increase of total collagens rate at the level of fibroblasts exposed to UVA/UVB respectively of 18%, 24% and 28%; exposed to blue light respectively of 24%, 31% and 39%; exposed to infrared light respectively of 20%, 28% and 36%.
Elastin
Another fibrous protein, elastin is rich in hydrophobic amino acids and is intertwined with collagen fibres. Its mechanical solidity and elasticity are due to a cross-linking agent called desmosine.
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
increase of elastin rate at the level of fibroblasts exposed to UVA/UVB respectively of 20%, 28%
Nitric Oxide (µM/mg of proteins)
Study of nitric oxide, the primary EDRF (Fig 5) Blood vessels are made of several layers of
Nitric Oxide (µM/mg of proteins)
and 37%; exposed to blue light respectively of 25%, 30% and 34%; exposed to infrared light respectively of 21%, 29% and 36%.
Reducing vasodilation: cutaneous microcirculation Cutaneous microcirculation is not very well understood, however, due to numerous skin arterioles and its substantial volume (1800 cm3
), it plays a vital role in maintaining blood
flow, even in the event of a heart attack. Its arterioles prevent blood reflux through vasoconstrictor tone, effectively maintaining continuous vasoconstriction. However as there are more venules, the blood generally flows more slowly on the inside; this helps parietal exchanges, but also leads to stagnation of the blood and vasodilation. Numerous vasodilations can be observed in the skin, these may be triggered by emotions or facial reflexes - due to an irritation of the stomach or mouth, or by the secretion of EDRF (nitric oxide) released in reaction to certain substances, in particular during the occurrence of inflammatory phenomena (including sunburn), due to the effect of the sun. Radiation such as UVA/UVB, blue and
infrared light, increase vasodilation by increasing the presence of nitric oxide and redness may then develop. Naolys therefore studied the effect of the enriched jasmine cell complex on this vasodilator. The nitric oxide released after exposure of cells to light can react with superoxide anions (O2
-), to form
peroxynitrites (ONOO-); these unstable anions can damage endothelial cells and consequently impair skin microcirculation.
fibrous cells and one is directly in touch with blood: endothelium. Made of flattened cells, it plays many parts, from haemostasis to vascular tonus, for which it releases vasodilator and vasoconstrictor factors. Among vasodilators is the nitric oxide (NO), that has been identified as the essential EDRF (Endothelium Derived Relaxing Factor). It is a liposoluble gas that activates a chemical reaction, leading to the relaxing of blood vessels or vasodilation.
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
there is a significant decrease of the release of nitric oxide at the level of endothelial cells in culture exposed to UVA/UVB respectively of 23%, 28% and 34% (compared to non- treated cells: +38%).
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
there is a significant decrease of the release of nitric oxide at the level of endothelial cells in culture exposed to blue light respectively of 20%, 28% and 32% (compared to non- treated cells: +24%).
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%,
there is a significant decrease of the release of nitric oxide at the level of endothelial cells in culture exposed to infrared light respectively of 18%, 25% and 30% (compared to non-treated cells: +32%).
Conclusion Naolys’s LightWaves Defense [JS+M] complex of Indian jasmine cells enriched with γ-mangosteen offers a wide range of benefits to skin care and makeup products, providing protection against the damaging effects of light. The benefits include anti- ageing, firming and anti-redness properties to products for more radiant and healthy- looking skin.
PC Nitric Oxide (µM/mg of proteins)
+24% +31% +39%
Control UVA/UVB LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+ Blue light
LD[JS+M] (1%)+
Blue light
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+ Blue light
Control Infared light
+20% +28% +36%
LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+ Infrared light
LD[JS+M] (1%)+ Infrared light
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+ Infrared light
-23% +28% -34%
Control UVA/UVB LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+
LD[JS+M] (1%)+
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+
UVA/UVB UVA/UVB UVA/UVB
-20% -28% -32%
Control UVA/UVB LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+ Blue light
Figure 5: Study of nitric oxide exposed to three key types of solar radiation. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2020
LD[JS+M] (1%)+
Blue light
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+ Blue light
Control Infared light
-18% -25% -30%
LD[JS+M] (0.5%)+ Infrared light
LD[JS+M] (1%)+ Infrared light
LD[JS+M] (2.5%)+ Infrared light
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