SKIN PROTECTION 179
Strong antioxidant defence from green tea extract
n Vanessa E Rivera, Timothy C Duzick, Eric Jourdan PhD, PharmD - Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, US
Skin is the largest organ in the human body and is subjected to various forms of oxidative stress on a daily basis.1
Oxidative stress can
be in the form of UV radiation, pollution, nutrition, etc. and can cause DNA damage, mitochondrial damage, lipid peroxidation, and protein damage,1
as well as reduce antioxidant levels in the skin.2 This resulting
damage can lead to a wide range of cutaneous disorders such as psoriasis, photoageing, acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis, and skin cancer.1
Extrinsic ageing is
not due solely to photoageing, therefore we realise the necessity of protection beyond sunscreen.3
prevent damage caused by both UV and environmental pollution.3
Topical antioxidants can help As such,
antioxidants are an effective method of preventing the damaging effects of oxidative stress, and novel phytoextracts with improved antioxidant activity are a growing area of interest.4
The synergistic combination of
polyphenols, catechins, caffeine, EGCG, and other phytochemicals in a Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Natpure™ Xtra Longevity (INCI: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract), a product of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies), obtained by a patented Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), helps to provide a powerful antioxidant shield that supports skin barrier function and helps prevent the deleterious
Growth of RHE D0 *IL-4, IL-13, IL-17E, IL-31, and TNF alpha Figure 1: Skin barrier default study protocol. Growth of RHE D0 Treatment with Active or Reference D6 UVA+UVB at 2 MED D9 Evaluation D10 D6 D10
effects of UV, working effectively as or better than vitamin E. While there are many ways to extract phytochemicals from biomasses, we have found that using SWE yields an extract with a richer bioactive composition than other extraction methods such hot water, water/ethanol blends, or organic solvents such as acetone (Patent US20070014912A1). The temperature of subcritical water is a key parameter in this extraction process.5
As the
temperature of the water increases above its atmospheric boiling point (achieved by increasing pressure in the extraction equipment), the dielectric constant decreases significantly, resulting in water that has a polarity similar to ethanol or acetone, depending on temperature. This is due to the disruption of water’s inherit hydrogen bonding. In addition, viscosity and surface tension decreases while molecular diffusion rates increase.5
human epidermis were conducted that highlights its effect on reversing skin barrier disruption and providing antioxidation protection. This green tea extract is a next- generation skin care ingredient to provide exceptional antioxidant protection.
Experimental design High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) study Sample Preparation: Dry extract samples were prepared by weighing 0.1000 g in 50 mL conical centrifuge tubes. 25 mL of 80% methanol is added to each tube and vortexed for 30 seconds. The tubes are sonicated for 30 minutes with agitation every 10 minutes. Each sample is filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter prior to HPLC injection.
Therefore, SWE is an attractive
extraction technique with the advantages of short extraction times, high efficiency, and low energy consumption, making it an environmentally friendly and sustainable extraction method.
In addition to being ethically sourced and extracted via a green extraction process, this super-charged green tea extract has high biological efficacy. Studies on reconstructed
Cytokine Mix* + Active or Reference (AD Model)
HPLC Analysis: l System: Agilent 1100 w/ G1311A Quaternary pump
l Software: Chemstation V 3.02B l Column: Kinetix 2.6um C18 100A; 150 x 3.0 mm
l Detector: G1315A DAD Detector; 190- 700 nm detection
l Mobile Phase:
A: 0.5% H3PO4 HPLC grade H2O B: 100% HPLC Grade Acetonitrile
Figure 2: UV stress study protocol. April 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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