120 SUN CARE


9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0


10 100 Size (nm) Figure 2: Particle size distribution of enhanceU-S by dynamic light scattering.


is ECOCERT and COSMOS certified. The properties of this formula remained unchanged (appearance, colour, fragrance, pH, SPF and UVA/UVB ration) after 3 months’ stability (internal protocol, at different temperature and light conditions). The evaluation of the protective properties of the cream after 3 months (mean values) is included in Table 1 to highlight the importance of checking that these parameters are maintained over time within the desired range.


Natural formula for skin care and sun care with colour: Feel warm The second natural formula is ‘Feel warm’, an o/w emulsion with ingredients for UV protection in skin care and colour cosmetics (see Fig 3).


SPF50 ‘Feel warm’ (INCI): Aqua,


Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, CI- 4492, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentylene Glycol, Silybum marianum extract,


Table 1: Characterisation of natural formulas after 3 months’ stability (mean values Ref.


SPF


Feel young Feel warm


35±8 58±2


UVA


22±5 35±1


Measuring equipment: Spectrometer SPF-290AS Solar Light.


Ethylhexyl Stearate, Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters, Perfume (Fragrance), Sodium Chloride, Silica, CI-77491, Phenylpropanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, CI-77499, Xantham Gum. (pH6.5) Colour and protection from both UVB


and UVA radiation is achieved with one only ingredient, enhanceU-T-warm (now referred to as ‘U-T’), a non-nanometric mineral UV filter (INCI: Titanium dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI-77491, CI-77499). The natural formula ‘Feel warm’ showed SPF30 with 12wt% U-T concentration and SPF50 with 15wt% U-T concentration. The protection from UVA radiation is shown by


UVA/UVB>0.6, which doubles the minimum value of UVA protection required UVA/UVB> 0.3m and critical wavelength >370 nm (in vitro measurements). U-T filter is ECOCERT and COSMOS certified. The properties of this formula remained unchanged (appearance, colour, fragrance, pH, SPF and UVA/UVB ration) after 3 months’ stability (internal protocol, at different temperature and light conditions). Like the previous formula, the results of SPF and UVA protection are maintained over time (Results in Table 1).


Mineral UV filters that are non- nanometric and protect from UVB and UVA radiation


Figure 3: Feel warm daily cream with colour. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


UV light (100-400 nm) is the most energetic component of the sunlight spectrum, which also includes VIS and IR light (10%, 40% and 50% respectively). Although UV light is mostly absorbed by oxygen and ozone from troposphere, the Earth’s surface is reached by UVB radiation (λ 290-320nm, more energetic and seasonal) and UVA radiation (λ 320-400 nm; more penetrating due to its greater wavelength, constant all year round). Depending on its wavelength, UV radiation reaches various layers of the skin, where reacts. The UVB radiation, less penetrating, acts mainly on the most superficial epidermis, causing erythema (sunburn), and partially reaching the dermis; while the UVA radiation passes through the dermis and reaches the hypodermis and it is responsible for skin photo-ageing. Both


April 2020


UVA/UVB ratio 0.73 0.82


LOC 377 386


1000


100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


Undersize


Intensity %


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