IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 19 Gattefossé.
of the skin microbiota implied in the loss of skin health, for instance Cutibacterium acnes. C. acnes is a commensal species, important for skin health. Certain genetic variants (phylotypes) of C. acnes play an important negative role for skin, though, for instance phylotype I-A1. CutiBiome CLR fully abolishes the film forming activity and significantly inhibits the growth of C. acnes I-A1. Sebum, comedones, pustules and pimples are reduced dramatically, as was confirmed by instrumental determinations and the volunteers who participated in this study themselves. Other in vivo studies showed potent reduction of dandruff. Four weeks of 3-times weekly use of a hair tonic with CutiBiome CLR lead to similar results to Piroctone olamine, but clearly outperformed it in reducing scalp oiliness, sensitivity and itch. Contipro is introducing to the world a brand new active ingredient based on state of the art research. The new ingredient reacts to the high demand on seeking the ultimate anti-pollution solution. At this year’s in-cosmetics show in
Barcelona, Contipro will be celebrating 30 years in the business. Contipro is focused on various biotechnologies, nanotechnologies and in-house research. Next to its core product, hyaluronic acid, which it produces at the highest quality level and in different variations, Contipro is also developing other active ingredients for modern cosmetics. In 2020, the company is launching an active ingredient with a strong anti-acne effect.
The first double-blind studies are already completed. This new ingredient reduces sebum production by 36% and acne by 25%. It has good anti-inflammatory properties too. On the anti-ageing side, this new ingredient improves the skin elasticity by 34% and reduces wrinkles by 36%. The Coptis R&D system allows the management of centralised databases for substances, raw materials, formulas and packaging components. In real time, formulators are informed of regulatory issues, brand blacklist and market constraints with automated alerts. The COSMOS standard is another new launched feature for Coptis LAB users; they
April 2020 KLK Oleo.
can now formulate their products in compliance with the COSMOS standard. Coptis LAB users set the content by
percentage of raw materials for: l CPAI: Chemically Processed Agro- Ingredient
l Organic CPAI l PPAI: Physically Processed Agro- Ingredient
l Organic PPAI l SyMo: Synthetic Moieties l NNI: Non Natural Ingredient With one click, the total % for Organic and Natural Ingredients of the final formula is calculated: % ORG PPAI of total, % ORG CPAI of total, % Organic ingredients of total (% ORG CPAI + % ORG PPAI), % SyMo of total and % Natural Origin of total. The Coptis solutions are industry standard with continuous evolutions to meets users’ needs in cosmetic products development. Coptis will have Coptis LAB Live Demonstrations on Day 1 at 4:00 pm and Day 2 at 3:00 pm.
Emulium Dolcea MB from Gattefossé is a new O/W emulsifier of 100% natural origin, easy to use and flexible which allows formulations from sprayable lotions to thick butters.
It is highly compatible with various cosmetic ingredients: all types of oils,
. It also brings reliable stability to emulsions, due to its unique composition. Baring a strong sensory signature, Emulium Dolcea MB provides high softness during application and after absorption to all formulations. Developed by Gattefossé oleochemists, it combines functional and sensory benefits and it also brings immediate and long-lasting moisturising properties up to 48 hours. Its properties make Emulium Dolcea MB an all-in-one functional and active solution for a wide range of applications in skin care and makeup, which pushes forward the limits of natural cosmetics. Ocea Health from Gelyma is a marine active extracted from Padina pavonica collected in the Mediterranean. Tested on over 3300 genes, it strengthens skin’s natural defensome with coordinated responses combining epidermal integrity, cell resilience, immune protection, inflammation modulation and skin regeneration to improve the comfort of sensitive skin. Ocea Health is COSMOS approved and China compliant (two patents pending). New tests are complementing the
gelling agents, alcohols, polyols, preservative systems, organic UV filters, TiO2
efficacy of Kimarine HC also from Gelyma. In addition to its protection of the follicle and the fibre against UV and environmental concerns, Kimarine HC prevents colour fading and improves hair quality for healthier looking appearance. Caphira made from the red alga Kappaphycus alvarezii is designed by Gelyma to consolidate the hair’s integrity and works on the three parts of hair. At the follicle level, Caphira prevents hair
Inovapotek.
loss. It increases the hair survival and stimulates the ferritin pathway known to be linked to alopecia in women presenting iron deficiency. It also boosts follicle metabolism. At the hair fibre level, it reinforces the fibre, protects dry hair, restores and enhances shine. At the scalp level, it improves the general comfort for a healthier state. It decreases the scalp erythema and inflammation of volunteers presenting scalp redness or visible irritation. As result, the hair feels full of vitality and shine and the scalp regains comfort and health. The environment continues to be the hottest global topic, in many aspects. Juggling the concern of how we can protect ourselves from it, whether it is protection from UV rays or from atmospheric pollution, and how we can protect the environment for future generations to come. While the beauty industry is trying to find answers to this question, inovapotek takes care of the industry by continuously developing new services, such as: anti-pollution in vivo tests, psychobiological tests on the stress relief,
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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