168 ANTI-AGEING


with outstanding flexibility and gives it special physical properties, such as powerful adhesion/cohesion to skin while it can also form thin, transparent films or networks with perfect mechanical characteristics leading to shrinkage when water is released.


Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Porphyridium cruentum is a unicellular red alga. The alga continuously secretes a mucus made of polysaccharides called phycocolloids, which protectively surround the cells like a gel capsule. The key monomers are sulphated, uronic acid- containing sugars capable of retaining a high amount of water.5


The secondary alga


metabolites may also contribute to a long term cosmetic function in the skin. All these three ingredients deliver film-


forming polysaccharide polymers that have a synergistic tightening effect and at the same time have moisturising properties. The polymer matrix blend in the wrinkle minimiser has been optimised to give a tightening effect that is intense and immediately perceivable but at the same time keeps the film flexible, ensuring a long-lasting effect for several hours. Incorporated in a marketable formulation (700338.0006, Ageless Eye Serum), the immediate effect is readily visible to the naked eye, as Figure 2 shows.


For alabaster-like skin Liftonin (now referred to as ‘the epidermal astringent’) was designed to re-establish and protect the organization of the fiber network with regards to the dermal extracellular matrix. It can be seen as a dual-component glue for the dermal network (see Figure 3). Compression of loose and weak dermal fibres leads to a re- establishment of strong collagen bundles and creates a robust dermal fibre network. Both orthosilicic acid and tannic acid are capable of binding to and gripping extracellular matrix fibres due to their high content of hydroxyl groups. Orthosilicic acid strengthens the existing collagen network6


and tannic acid contributes to


stable tightening of the fibre network. By these means, it reorganises the bundles of collagen in a way that promotes the infiltration of vital fibroblasts.7


Furthermore,


the fixation of the collagen matrix to the basal lamina strengthens the dermo- epidermal junction, counteracting the formation of fine lines and exacerbation of fine lines to form deeper wrinkles. The epidermal astringent not only


provides mechanical support to the dermal structure but also promotes healthy cell function: Valuable nutrients and vitamins present in the millet extract promote the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Orthosilicic acid stimulates the collagen production of dermal fibroblasts.8


By PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Before application 30 sec after application 3 min after application


Figure 2: Liftonin-Xpress provides immediately visible results following application of a small amount of Ageless Eye Serum containing 2% Liftonin-Xpress. Within 30 seconds, the lifting effect is almost fully completed as demonstrated by the readout of a PRIMOS 5.1. device. Male volunteer, aged 45. Top panels: optical view, middle panels: relief projection, lower panels: false colour representation of wrinkle depth.


providing an attractive environment for the recruitment of fibroblasts to the affected collagen structures using tannins, the required fresh collagen is supplied where it is needed most. In addition, by inhibiting dermis-decomposing enzymes, tannins can help to maintain a fully functional dermis.9 As a result, the epidermal astringent perfectly combines physical properties and biological effects in one active ingredient.10


Functional ingredients and efficacy Tannins and tannic acid: natural astringents derived from oak gallnut Tannins are excellent astringents: they are extremely rich in hydrogen donors and acceptors, which allows them to form multiple hydrogen links and bond tightly with proteins. This very well-known intrinsic property of tannins can be employed to


generate a tightening effect on the skin surface. However, recent research has revealed another structural benefit to the skin: tannins contribute to tight crosslinking and stabilisation of the fiber network of the extracellular matrix of the dermis and reorganise the collagen bundles in a way that promotes the infiltration of fibroblasts.7 An in vitro experiment using collagen disks impressively demonstrated the collagen- stabilising function of tannins: while the collagen disks contracted readily when supplemented with fibroblasts, the presence of tannins delayed the contraction significantly by several days due to fixing of the collagen structure (Fig 4).


Millet Seed Extract: bioavailable silicon for strong connective tissue


For decades, millet has been widely April 2020


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132  |  Page 133  |  Page 134  |  Page 135  |  Page 136  |  Page 137  |  Page 138  |  Page 139  |  Page 140  |  Page 141  |  Page 142  |  Page 143  |  Page 144  |  Page 145  |  Page 146  |  Page 147  |  Page 148  |  Page 149  |  Page 150  |  Page 151  |  Page 152  |  Page 153  |  Page 154  |  Page 155  |  Page 156  |  Page 157  |  Page 158  |  Page 159  |  Page 160  |  Page 161  |  Page 162  |  Page 163  |  Page 164  |  Page 165  |  Page 166  |  Page 167  |  Page 168  |  Page 169  |  Page 170  |  Page 171  |  Page 172  |  Page 173  |  Page 174  |  Page 175  |  Page 176  |  Page 177  |  Page 178  |  Page 179  |  Page 180  |  Page 181  |  Page 182  |  Page 183  |  Page 184  |  Page 185  |  Page 186  |  Page 187  |  Page 188  |  Page 189  |  Page 190  |  Page 191  |  Page 192  |  Page 193  |  Page 194  |  Page 195  |  Page 196