140 SKIN PROTECTION
and an increase in skin sensitivity. The protection against urban pollutants is
therefore one of the new cosmetic objectives to safeguard the appearance and health of the skin.
Results obtained have shown how
regenerated sericin, obtained through the circular economy process described above, added to a simple formulation creates a protective shield ‘second skin’ effect, limiting the deposition of pollutants on the skin leading to a brighter skin. The same formulation applied on damaged strands of hair has also demonstrated to have a film- forming action with an ‘instant repair’ effect resulting in more compact strands and closed cuticles, a further confirmation of how this regenerated and sustainable sericin is able to create a protective film on skin and cuticles.
Antipollution action Results from a clinical study A formulation (Table 1) containing 0.4% regenerated sericin was tested in a clinical study in order to evaluate the efficacy in protecting the skin from air pollutants. Micro-particles of carbon black with a chemical composition and grade abiding to scientific and ethical standards for clinic studies, were used with the purpose to mimic cutaneous penetration of the polluting particles.
This clinical study was carried out on 20 volunteers, evaluated as suitable for participation and without skin pathologies in areas to be treated.
Methods and materials On each volunteer, 2 different areas on one of the two forearms were contoured; one was treated with the product (Table 1) under test, the other acted as control.
Application method can be followed as
below: l The product was applied at a dose of 2 mg/cm² with a pipette and spread on the identified area with a fingerstall. The area considered as control was untreated. Subjects waited 20 minutes in order to let the skin dry.
l Carbon black was applied on the tested areas with a clean makeup sponge.
l The areas were rinsed with the same dose of water. In order to assess the anti-adhesion effect of the micro-particles on the skin surface, two different parameters were evaluated: The average number of black pixels
Table 1: Formulation tested Tested Formula Water
Preservative Xanthan gum
MORIPURE® Powder SD Sericin PERSONAL CARE EUROPE %
Qb 100 Qb 1
0,4 200.000 300.000 n t2 n t3
100.000
0 Product Untreated
Figure 2: Number of black pixels (mean) at T2, T3. At T3, the number of black pixels were reduced compared to the previous measurement (T2) by 17.4% in the treated area and 0.4% in the untreated area (not significant).
n t2 n t3 40 30
+43.36% after rinse off
+1.08% after rinse off 20
10
0 Treated Untreated
around the treated area was photographed by a digital micro-camera (Dino-lite digital microscope) with high resolution. Photographs at different times (T0, T2 and T3) were carried out in the same room, with controlled lighting conditions and with area under examination placed in the same position. The image was transposed on a black/white axis to highlight black dots and standardise the image. Then the black pixels were quantified using specific software (GIMP).
Parameter L, one of the coordinates of the CIE 1976 (L*, a*, b*) colour space, used to express the brightness of the colour L*=0 indicates black, L*= 100 indicates white. The increase of the L- parameter of the analysed area indicates a shift in the colour toward white. A Minolta Chromameter CR200 was used for an accurate and objective evaluation of the colour of surfaces. These evaluations were carried out at the following times: T0 = before product application T1 = after product application T2 = after applying carbon black T3 = following rinsing
Figure 3: Evaluation of L parameter at T2 and T3 in the treated and in the untreated area. Results
Evaluation of microparticle adhesion by GIMP
Under the experimental conditions described, using the Dino-Lite micro- camera, black pixels at T0, T1 T2, T3 were counted. The values recorded at T2 and T3 were then normalised with respect to T0. The tested product has been shown to
be effective in promoting the removal of microparticles from the skin. At T3, the number of black pixels were reduced compared to the previous measurement (T2) by 17.4% in the treated area and 0.4% in the untreated area, reaching statistical significance* in the treated area (Figure 1 and Figure 2). p< 0,0001*
Evaluation of skin radiance through analysis of the parameter L The results obtained (Fig 3) showed a statistically significant increase of 43.36% of the L parameter at T3 in the area treated with the product and a 1.08% in the untreated area (not significant). This showed that the product containing
April 2020
L Value
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