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FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 149


proteins can induce a skin reaction via a topical route2


and people suffering from


peanut allergy may suffer an allergic reaction via topical application depending on the refining of the peanut oil.3 The EAACI (European Academy of


Allergy and Clinical Immunology) is a great resource for those who wish to know further about this important topic.


Residues and the importance of purity


Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, a forest green natural, is the most common organic ingredient I have come across. It is rich in amino acids and polysaccharides, and has calming and soothing properties. The juice coming from the part nearer the outer leaf contains aloin. If ingested it has a laxative effect; if applied topically it may cause irritation in some individuals. For this reason, it is important to use the aloe vera juice from the inner leaf for topical applications. Hydrogenation is a chemical modification often used in the food and cosmetic industry to achieve fats with higher stability to oxidation and interesting textures. The process of hydrogenation requires a catalyst, which often happens to be nickel, a metal linked to allergic contact dermatitis.4


Despite


the fact that the nickel is removed after the processing, there may still be residues left behind, something that needs to be to clarified with the supplier. It is quite interesting to come across so many cosmetics that have the claim “Nickel tested”. Lanolin, is a forest green ancient ingredient once used by the Romans and Greeks, a great by-product of the wool industry (you may call it ‘waste free’ these days), with a wonderful series of skin barrier properties and a rich skin-feel. Unfortunately, as sheep get exposed to higher level of pesticides from dips, these chemicals have migrated into the lanolin, which can cause quite bad skin reactions. The realisation of this was a major learning process, but the industry acted on it, and developed high purity grades of lanolin restoring this natural wonder to its safe spot.5


Oxidation and essential oils safety Natural essential oils are full of terpenes with very interesting properties. Some of the most famous and common ones are limonene and linalool. These terpenes are found in most essential oils and are also on the allergens list and therefore subject to labelling declaration according to their content and application. Even if these substances are on the allergens list, in their original unoxidised state they do not tend to cause skin reactions, however when they oxidise it is a different matter.6


They form


hydroperoxides that give a high rate of skin reaction. This means it is essential to purchase essential oils with a low peroxide content, use special storage conditions as


April 2020


green’ natural) are milder than the non- ethoxylated sulfates, as they score much lower on the Zein test, however they contain residues such as 1,4 Dioxane, which is classified as a likely carcinogen by the EPA, and which has been found in drinking water supplies. This has led to legal restrictions in the state of New York.7c


Preservatives Lanolin.


well as using additional ingredients in the formula to help preventing the oxidation of the essential oils.


Microbial contaminants and products safety Forest green naturals are the ones that are closest to nature and because of that the ones with the highest microbial hazard potential, in the form of high microbial counts and spores. Contaminated hydrolats and vegetable oils are common natural ingredients that can compromise the finished product, particularly its preservative system and therefore its safety. For this reason it is good practice to select quality suppliers that take good care of the microbial content of the ingredients they supply.


Sulfates


This class of anionic surfactants (some ‘pine green’ naturals, some ‘olive green’), have got quite a reputation with consumers who think that “sulfate free” equates to “mild”. On the other hand, many formulators love them as they are cheap, easy to thicken and foam like a dream. This is quite an emotional gap! In my opinion, the gap comes from misunderstandings as to how sulfates are used and the data available. Data shows SLS affinity for the NMF7a


, and the resultant


potential to disrupt proper barrier function and mildness. However when SLS is used as a primary surfactant and in combination with the right secondary surfactants and in the right proportions, its irritation potential is reduced.7b


Was the sulfate fear caused by


formulas containing sulfates without, or without enough, irritation ‘antidotes’ or by a particular consumer with very sensitive skin? In my opinion the answer lies with data. New data is needed from further research to understand how surfactants interact with skin sebum and skin proteins and to see how such interaction evolves over time as consumer exposure to cosmetics increases. Ironically ethoxylated sulfates (‘olive


Sodium benzoate (found as benzoic acid in many plants) and potassium sorbate (found in rowan berry, from Sorbus aucuparia) are common preservatives present in the Annex V. They are lime green naturals, or nature identical ingredients, and often used in soft drinks and certified cosmetics, mainly as a blend. Several people within the industry, including myself, have experienced at some point the irritation potential linked to these ingredients, especially in face products, and that is with using them within the permitted level of use. This does not mean they need to be avoided, only that they might need combined with other ingredients to reduce their level of use and increase mildness depending on the application.


Conclusions


This is a complex topic with a lot of detail involved, so I hope I have given a good sense of best practice when it comes to naturals and mildness. The key message is that safe and mild naturals depend very much on the suppliers and formulators. Suppliers play a key role in delivering plant derived ingredients with good specifications, while formulators need to design formulas protecting natural ingredients from oxidation and selecting suitable preservatives and surfactants for mild positioning of the formula. To know more about the Cosmos standard


and preserving cosmetics with multifunctional ingredients, check my online course on the Specialchem platform or for a one to one technical support, contact me directly on my website. I will also be speaking at the workshop on preservation and skin sensitivities at in-cosmetics Global in Barcelona.


PC


References 1 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/


articles/PMC3858659/


2 https://tinyurl.com/vg7vyh7 3 https://www.sciencedirect.com/ science/article/abs/pii/S0091674997700770


4 https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ full/10.1111/cod.13327


5 Lanolin: fact vs fiction, by Ian Johnson, SPC November 1992


6 https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ pdf/10.1111/bjd.13037


7a https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/ 10.1111/ics.12101


7b https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/ 12535285


7c https://tinyurl.com/savmjn9 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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