ANTIPERSPIRANTS 117


l The mean and median sweat reduction values should be close, as a relatively large difference could indicate something wrong with the study.


l An effective product should work on both men and women, but mixed gender test panels are not recommended so as to avoid any questionable results due to surface area and sweat volume differences. In general female panellists are used.


l Statistics experts indicate that you need about a 28% arithmetical sweat reduction with 30 - 35 panellists to pass the FDA Monograph statistical performance criterion. The Clearcast protocol recommends 50 panellists. However, it should be remembered that there are no other quantitative standards for antiperspirant performance ex US and UK. So if your product reduces perspiration statistically better than a control, you can label your product an antiperspirant. In the US, antiperspirant claims are restricted to FDA OTC monograph ingredients only.


Marketing in a crowded field The global underarm products market (antiperspirants and deodorants) is healthy and growing. The growth is fuelled by the youth population, and the key factors that are currently driving the market are increasing concern about hygiene among consumers, changing lifestyles which includes daily grooming routines, increasing disposable income resulting in discretionary toiletry products becoming necessities for daily use, and innovations in new formats and ingredients. While the North American and European markets currently exhibit the highest demand, many other countries and cultures are adopting the changes. As examples, Eastern Europe is the growth engine in Europe, and India is the fastest growing market in Asia due to increasing westernisation and male grooming trends. Per Statista, the global compound annual growth rate (CAGR) for this category over the next five years is projected to be in the range of about 4% – 6%. Current global penetration of underarm products is about 70%, so it is not yet fully mature. This also supports the high growth potential of the category. A concurrent global trend in the cosmetics market in general is the rising consumer awareness of natural ingredients with therapeutic or biological effects. This is combined by consumers with an association of possible side effects derived from some of the chemical and synthetic ingredients in antiperspirants. This is a key challenge faced by the market. The safety of aluminum salts is under even though the links to


increasing scrutiny23


breast cancer and Alzheimer’s disease are not April 2020


generally accepted in the scientific and medical communities, and some studies are even discredited. This continued negative pressure about the effects of aluminium-based antiperspirants on health is contributing to a growing consumer demand for natural antiperspirant ingredients and formulations specifically for sticks, creams, and emulsions. We know that consumer belief and


perception is often very different, and we know from interviews that many consumers would willingly purchase a ‘natural’ antiperspirant at a premium price even with only a modest sweat reduction activity. Already there is some initial reporting that aluminum could be restricted in some countries in Western Europe, particularly France and the Nordic countries to start. Given the anticipated regulatory restrictions on aluminum salts, consumer demand for natural antiperspirants, and ethnobotanical knowledge of several herbs used as topical antiperspirants, more resources should be devoted to identifying potential antiperspirant ingredients from natural sources and verifying their clinical efficacy. Once potential candidates have been identified, challenges such as reliable ingredient sourcing, formulation, and stability can be overcome with dedicated R&D investment.


PC


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23 European Commission SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), Opinion on the safety of Aluminium in cosmetic products, preliminary version of 30-31 October 2019, SCCS/1613/19.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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