164 FRAGRANCES O&3 formulation recommendations
Our range of butters provide almost endless options when striving for an added value formulation. You can make an excellent butter blend out of very little. If venturing down the simple route: choose your butter base and then select your aroma to accompany it. Through a straightforward heating and
mixing process, you can create a beautiful aromatic butter from as little as Refined Shea Butter and an essential oil of your choice. Here are some of our favourite butter blends to give you an idea of how far you can take formulating with these fantastic ingredients:
Hands
The blend: Cold Pressed Plum Oil, Refined Sweet Almond Oil BP73, Virgin (Unrefined) Cocoa Butter with a splash of Fresh Lemongrass Oil. We love this Plum blend. The natural Almond aroma of Plum Oil combined with
contain an essential oil or a single compound as an active agent, like rosemary oil or eucalyptus oil.
It is key to work with natural oils experts as essential oils are made up of highly volatile components, derived from a range of different chemical classes. They can be susceptible to conversion and degradation reactions which could result in loss of quality. Clean beauty is also driving a demand for clean ingredients, so we all need to keep looking ahead to do what we can to mitigate market volatility.
Cold pressed oils Although predominantly used in cooking, cold pressed oils can also have a part to play in the fragrance of a finished formulation - although this can sometimes be more difficult to define. The oils we provide are extracted from seeds, fruits, vegetables and nuts. We often find that manufacturers of cosmetic products regularly use cold pressed almond and coconut oil to fragrance their products. Do not forget, applying an oil with a very intensive inherent scent, such as neem oil or perilla seed oil, can define your finished formulation, so make sure you have considered the natural aroma of the cold pressed oil. For example, cold pressed plum oil and cold pressed almond oil have the smell of marzipan - which is a lovely scent but may not be the desired smell!
When it comes to clean beauty, cold
pressing is the most natural oil extraction process, often avoiding the use of heat or chemical additives. Unrefined and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Lavender Oil and Geranium Oil. Coconut and Shea work so well together as a base when blended properly. They are both solid deep absorbers which is exactly what the body needs to hydrate post bath or shower. This can be blended with any carrier oil; we chose Evening Primrose for this particular blend because of its GLA (Gamma Linoleic Acid) profile, which is an effective anti-inflammatory oil.
Feet
fresh Lemongrass Oil makes this super nourishing formulation an easily absorbed hand butter.
Body
The blend: Virgin (Unrefined) Coconut Oil, Virgin (Unrefined) Shea Butter, Golden (Cold Pressed) Jojoba Oil and Refined Evening Primrose Oil, Bergamot Oil,
antioxidant packed, they can be great options for fragrance.
Formulation considerations As you would expect with a focus on transparency in the personal care industry, there has been a notable push on supply and demand of natural and organic products, impacting costs - so you need to be sure about the quality of the ingredients you are sourcing. Consumers are certainly a lot more conscious when it comes to skin care in particular, wanting products that have been produced without pesticides or GM ingredients, and with full technical transparency. Organic certifications like COSMOS organic guarantee a certain quality, coming from sustainably sourced organic ingredients, using natural colours and fragrances, and processes which protect wildlife and biodiversity. Without an industry-wide agreed definition of what ‘clean beauty’ means, organic certifications have a huge role to play in providing assurance. However, the way organic ingredients
are produced means that by default, they are harder to source and you are exposed to environmental and circumstantial factors, such as the crop being damaged or not yielding as well as a conventional crop might. Without pesticides and preservatives, it can be more challenging to produce these ingredients with consistent volumes, which contributes to rising prices - which should not be the case.
It should be about looking for stability,
The blend: Unrefined Shea Butter, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Calendula Infused in Sunflower Oil, Manuka Oil Lavender Oil. This blend is a hit for those who suffer
from extremely dry and cracked feet. Although the addition of cold pressed oils is important, we must highlight the key ingredient – Calendula Infused in Sunflower Oil. This oil is an anti- inflammatory so helps reduce any swelling or aching of the feet.
so customers do not have the stress of forecasting niche ingredients. We know that when dealing with some very expensive products - such as the extremely fragrant Rose Absolute oil, which has a warm, spicy floral odour - formulators and buyers want consistency, not the stress of forecasting production in Turkey and Morocco. It is just too complex. Last year, we identified Organic Lavender Essential Oil as trading much higher than the norm due to poor crops. While we do not rise and reduce prices with the market, it is good to see that it has since recovered, and its latest harvest prices have again reduced. French steam distilled Lavender Angustifolia is an iconic cosmetic aroma that has been used to fragrance linens and cosmetic products for centuries, as an extremely calming essential oil, whether it is a pillowcase, a candle, lotion or soap.
The future for fragrance There is an exciting opportunity for natural oils to grow within the personal care sector by focusing on fragrance, through natural scents, therapeutic claims and new technology - leading the way on safe ingredients and products consumers can trust.
Innovations in extraction techniques are expected to bolster the growth of the market in emerging economies, especially with the rise in demand for natural fragrances from markets across Asia Pacific. Unique, personalised fragrances are now and will likely remain popular with consumers. Brands making the most of the
April 2020
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