170 ANTI-AGEING Evenness of skin microstructure Skin micro-relief on fine lines


Figure 5: Improvement of microstructure and fine lines with use of Liftonin. After 28 days of treatment with 2 % Liftonin, the skin was markedly enhanced.


Figure 6: Improvement of visible wrinkles with use of Liftonin. After 28 days of treatment with 3 % Liftonin, wrinkles were markedly reduced.


ROS UV IR ROS UV IR APM


frutescens point in a new direction: thus Bulbine frutescens sap has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis in fibroblasts13,14 an effect that has been confirmed by the results of our own in vitro studies. The acetylated polymannose (APM) is most likely responsible for this. It has been shown that purified APM significantly stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and significantly increases the rate of collagen synthesis.15,16 APM has been ascribed a whole series of other positive effects, for example anti- inflammatory, anti-bacterial and even anti- tumorigenic effects. APM also appears to regulate the immune response in a remarkable way, leading to faster healing of skin wounds.17


These combined features – Knipholone


stimulation of collagen expression as well as anti-inflamm’ageing properties – make smart collagen management possible, which means the skin is provided with exactly the amount of collagen needed to sufficiently suppress inflammatory processes and thus counteract natural skin ageing. The result is an extraordinary reduction of wrinkles and a noticeable lifting effect on sagging skin, e.g. in the neck area (Fig 8).


Pro-inflammatory environment inflamm’Ageing


Activation of collagenases


Collagen breakdown Reduced dermis thickness


Thin, sagging skin Fragile skin


Anti-inflammatory environment Activation of fibroblasts


Basal collagenase activity Collagen build up Recovered dermis thickness


Recovered, Firm skin Rejuvenated skin


Figure 7: Smart collagen management with use of Liftonin-Xpert Eco leads to recalibrated levels of collagen in the dermis. Ageing alters the balance between collagen build-up and breakdown. Senescent fibroblasts produce too little collagen, while inflamm’ageing leads to increased degradation of existing collagen. Liftonin-Xpert Eco restores balance and normalises the collagen content of the dermis.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Conclusions Liftonin-Xpress, Liftonin and Liftonin-Xpert Eco represent three generations of anti- wrinkle cosmetic actives that keep pace with our times. On the basis of cutting- edge scientific solutions, different concepts were developed to target ageing skin. Rahn


April 2020


Although smart collagen management needs some time to provide visible results, it seems to be the most powerful solution when it comes to sustainable wrinkle minimisation and rejuvenation of the skin. Due to the collagen stimulating activity, the collagen manager can be used in a wide range of cosmetic applications designed for the care of stretch marks, tattoos as well as nail cuticles.


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