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FRAGRANCES 161


was observed in a few fragrance ingredients after some hours. Perfume compositions were also boosted and fixated by sensiva SC 50 in different cosmetic formulations. The lower the substantivity of the perfume, the stronger was the boosting and/or fixating effect of sensiva SC 50. In these formulas, the perfume concentration could be reduced with the addition of 0.5% sensiva SC 50.


The boosting and fixating of fragrance


ingredients can often allow a lower use concentration of the perfume in the final formulation. Due to interactions between the fragrance ingredients in a perfume composition and with the formulation base itself, the effect of sensiva SC 50 must be tested case by case. Natisol from Sinerga is a lipoaminoacidic eco-solubilising agent derived from coconut fatty acids and proline. It is particularly suitable to solubilise essential oils and fragrances for toiletries and perfumes, as it substitutes ethoxylated surfactants normally used in cosmetic products. It is recommended to formulate


transparent personal care products, especially makeup removers and micellar waters, as toxicity tests showed that it is not irritant for human corneal epitelium. Natisol is able to completely solubilise essential oils creating perfectly clear solutions. As every essential oil has a different behaviour when added to water, the ratio (E.O.) : (Natisol) depends on the composition of the essential oil. In order to obtain higher clarity in finished products, the occasional addition of Salt (NaCl) from 0.5% to 1% in the aqueous phase could be useful to increase Natisol’s solubilising capacity. For instance, with lavender, which is


quite difficult to solubilise in the aqueous phase, there are two possibilities: Natisol and also Natisol + NaCl 1%.


Natisol can be used even to solubilise flavourings; in this case, sodium chloride helps to obtain a clear solution, keeping Natisol’s quantity unvaried.


Fragrance concepts Bell Flavors & Fragrances is a leading supplier of fragrances and botanical extracts for personal and household care products as well as the perfume industry. At in-cosmetics Global 2019 earlier this year, the Germany-based fragrance house responded to the major trend of consumers’ desire for individuality and unique beauty rituals. Under the motto “It’s all about you“, Bell presented fragrances and extracts for conventional and natural cosmetics. For fine fragrances, Bell introduced the silicone-free version of its perfume cream ‘Scent2Last’. In fine fragrances, liquid perfumes dominate in the market, but alternative formats and textures give room to grow and offer differentiation. People look for innovations – especially for on the go. Portable rollerballs, easy-use cushions and solid sticks are trending.


Scent2Last is an intensive perfume


cream tapping into this demand for new solid formats. The non-sticky cream can be applied precisely onto the skin and holds just as much perfume oil as otherwise only classic fine perfumes. Over this, the fragrance profile remains more constant over time due to its encapsulated fragrances. As the cream is good to dose, Scent2Last is ideal for refreshment and may act as portable replacement for a classic liquid fine perfume. The smaller format might also encourage to experiment with new scents. The exhibited fragrances are inspired by colourful topics such as the fun-loving “Glow & Glitter“, the wellness-oriented “Me Time“ or regional inspired concepts linking to the elegance of France or to the biodiversity of Latin America. Givaudan Active Beauty has created ‘Fragrance on the move’, an innovative concept including four products merging cosmetics and fine fragrances to enhance beauty and to provide inspiration, delight and astonishment.


‘Fragrance on the move’ leads the way for new beauty trends by bringing unprecedented innovation and revolutionary perspectives to the beauty industry.


As consumers begin to demand more


than a regular skin routine, Givaudan Active Beauty developed four new products dedicated to one specific part of the body, combining more than 10% of fragrance, crafted by our fine fragrances perfumers in Paris, and skin care to enhance the daily beauty routine of customers. Attraction: A neck and décolleté lotion to unveil new seduction supremacy. Featuring Megassane, a skin tone highlighter and Neurophroline, an overall skin stress control, Attraction protects the neck and décolleté while brightening the aura. The musky, spicy and woody olfactive notes will seduce. AB-Perfection: A dry body oil SPF 20 to


revive body’s beauty. Featuring Nyamplung oil, a precious oil, Questice Liquid, a long lasting body cooler and Uniprotect PT-3, a powerful skin protector against UV, Perfection protects and repairs the skin from all external aggressions. Fruity top notes enhanced with several marine notes will leave you dreaming about summer. AB-Affirmation: A hair elixir to beautify the hair and leave a precious mark with its floral, fruity and woody olfactive notes. Featuring ResistHyal, a 7-in-1 hair beauty enhancer, Kendi Oil, a miraculous oil and Glossyliance, a hair shine ingredient, Affirmation brings softness, hydration and volume to hair with a glossy effect. AB-sensation: A light legs mist to let the


freshness transport oneself. Featuring Evercool skin, an advanced cooling technology, Sensation has a unique long- lasting freshness power including aromatic, green and fruity olfactive notes that let consumers feel invigorated and hydrated, glamorously.


PC


April 2020


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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