FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 59


advanced sustainable production unit, energetically independent. Waste of vegetable oils and biomass are recycled in an onsite power station to produce a safe energy and feed microalgae themselves with CO2


.


Mechanisms of skin sensitivity The skin is the largest organ of the body and provides the interface between the external environment and the host. The major function of the skin is to provide a barrier between the host and the hostile external world. While the skin has many important barrier functions, the two that are absolutely required for survival are the permeability barrier (circulation of water and electrolytes) and the antimicrobial barrier (against invasive and toxic microbes).


Cholesterol: Essential & Multifunctional Lipid (Fig 3)


In the human body, cholesterol is one of the most abundant lipids and plays both structural and functional roles. Embedded in the cell membrane, it influences membrane fluidity and permeability and particularly in the stratum corneum of the skin, cholesterol is located in the hydrophobic extracellular lipid matrix and plasma membrane of corneocytes providing the principal barrier to the transcutaneous movement of water, electrolytes or microbes.


Formation of the hydrophobic extracellular lipid matrix and plasma membrane of corneocytes The hydrophobic extracellular lipid matrix consists of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Their organisation is a lamellar structure in which several layers are stacked on top of one another.


MICROALGAE CO2


MINIMAL CO2


FOOTPRINT WASTE RECYCLED OILS ENERGY Figure 2: Closed-circuit low carbon footprint photobioreactor technology process. OH A CH3 B Steroid nucleus ➞rigid molecule C CH3 CH CH2


Hydrophilic, polar part Hydrophobic, apolar part


CH2 CH CH3


CH 3


Figure 3: Cholesterol: an amphiphilic molecule.


The lipids that form the extracellular lamellar membranes are secreted as their precursors from outer epidermal keratinocytes in lamellar bodies, which are ovoid, membrane bilayer-encircled secretory organelles that are unique to the epidermis. Lamellar bodies begin to be generated as


keratinocytes differentiate and maximal numbers are present in keratinocytes in the stratum granulosum. At the interface of granular and cornified layers, lamellar bodies fuse with plasma membrane and deliver their content into the extracellular medium. Thus, the plasma membrane and intercellular


BARRIER DISRUPTION


Defects in the protective physical barrier lead to a decrease in expression of differentiation markers such as Filaggrin (FLG) or Involucrin (INV),


combined to an increase of Carbonic anhydrase II (CA2), facilitating allergens and pathogens invasion.


CH3 CH2 Lateral chain D INGREDIENTS


MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGES


Inflammatory dermatoses are characterized by intraepidermal edema. Spongiosis, observed in AD, is an abnormal accumulation of fluid in the epidermis.


In the subacute stage of AD, pyknotic nuclei of inflammatory cells are observed


Source: StratiCELL© Figure 4: Effects of inflammation. April 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


CHRONIC INFLAMATION


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